Some of CanleyClassics truely AWFUL cast monkey junk hubs, these are the originals made by dumb and dumber, cast from the original steel unit with NO thought as to the fact ALLOY is WEAKER.Cast from totally the wrong material, they split around the bearing race unless you drive like grandma, then bearing tracks fall out (they do that anyway as the material used is shat, it expands like buggery in harduse (big brakes) situations and the bearing tracks work loose), not suprising looking at them, they are shockingly bad.
I've seen splits on the original steel ones, I wouldn't fit these unless I had a DEATHWISH.
This one hasn't even been 1 mile on the road and it's already cracked.
SHOCKING. You buy this stuff, you must be NUTS! Those alloy wishbones for rotoflex that are now cast from some smelted down old pistons and not machined from billet are another example of the most dangerous clueless / shocking engineering.This material is not at all suited to a "sheer" component.
Please ensure your life insurance is ok, they may cost £55 each but your life is surely worth more? Please if you have these parts fitted and my car is near yours on a trackday, please tell me first and I can avoid you when they snap and you spear off the track.
I have some of these shocking wishbones to consider fitting to this car, I don't like them AT ALL. Not on my car please.
These wishbones are the most stupid thing I have ever seen! The mould shinkage is a highly amusing, the outer bush hole has 6mm material around the eyelet on one wishbone, the other is the one that will snap, it's got massive shinkage, down to 3.8mm!!! I couldn't bring myself to sell such utter tatt.
I am sure the maker will bang on about how they are fine, when drive at 30mph around Donnington maybe? try a few days at Nurburgring or a few races, try smacking a few curbs on track and tell me you are convinced?
More money down the drain!
Who puts stuff together without removing the powdercoating from an interference fit joint or fitting surface?? Answer = silly person.
I pull the hubs off the stub axles and the grease seals come out with the bearing, why? Cause some prat fitted them backwards.
Same prat who greased these new uprights and trunnions. Dunno what this grease it but that's now gone. It's too thick it's like hardened bile.
Above shows how not to pack a hub, completely full? Filled by dumb and dumber brothers? Grease in hubs needs to be half packed to allow it to move, or it will all come out or never move and the bearings will fail. All this muck would be have been released out the back of the hubs and sprayed all over the discs and pads, ruining them.Good job someone checked the disc to hub bolts, some were mega tight, some half done up?
As I said this car needs a REAL check total strip down, I tested two of "kevins" (appropriate name, his misses must be Sally) homemade braided brake lines at my mates the other day, one exploded at about 100psi!
WRONG!!!!
WRONG.Marks = 0/10. FAIL!
Looks like a candidate for a hub and stub axle swap.
As you can see the powder coating on the uprights is useless, so I washed it off, exposing a lovely looking brand new set of uprights complete with silver plating on them with new OE trunnions. Better than the Caterham options with those horrible lower bearing carriers.
Just have to clean up this upright with a flap disc, press out the old stub axles then remove the lower wishbones from the chassis, remove them cause someone left masking tape on them and hammered them into the chassis, if you powdercoat stuff, make sure you remove the masking tape and excess coating before fitting the stuff to a car :) :) :) Duh.Anyways, after this is done I can do what I can while I await some new hubs.
Even if those hubs weren't split I'd tell Matt to bin them anyway, THEY WILL BREAK. I even called the owner to confirm where they came from cause they looked like total junk.
Sorry nothing positive today :) :) :)
Maybe another day!
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