Just need my two 7/16th rod ends to arrive to ge the bonnet back on...7/16 is overkill but thats what I bodged up before...Over winter I will remake the tubes from alloy and downsize to M6 or M7 joints.

Sorted, the bracket on the body needed bending. Handbrake needed letting off a bit, about 5 turns a side as when you lower it this much the cable is effectively shortened, alot!
FLYWHEEL BOLT INFO
I forgot to mention when I was getting my last flywheel done we found the problem. I had an email from Andy Vowell today suggesting exactly the same thing for my last failure. A mistake by me. Basically not studying the new bolts and assuming they were the same as stock. The ARP bolts have a fillet radius where the shank meets the head to reduce stress loads between the two planes, so you need to chamfer your flywheel holes or washers slightly, a bigger sized drill will do, about 1.5mm deep is more than enough, or the bolts beach on the fillet radius and doesn't sit on the head and clamp the fly, if you don't do this you will loose the flywheel.
So after a while the fillet compresses the sharp cut on the flywheel holes if they have been enlarged and the bolts loose torque. Mistake cost me about £120 in petrol, machining and scrap parts and 15hrs work time! Lucky I noticed later on before refitting the new fly that the fillets were polished and I chamfered this fly before fitting. Forgot to mention that! Touch wood it'll be bombproof now...Just the rest of it to worry about 8-) I wish I had this crank nitrided but being as its on its last grind it'll do for now! It wasn't meant to be a full race cam 33mm choked engine!
AndyV for your concern! Andy like me, has been there and done that I think. You lives and learns. Ta mate!
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