0.750" 3/4" inch max fluid movement - Wilwood master cylinder. Jon Wolfe's brake slack was non existant this is why he said. Its not ideal cause its a small reserviour and its not angled, however unless you have a system that leaks fluid you have no need for a big master cylinder in my opinion.You simply fill this 1 to the near the brim and you wont suffer any slosh as there is no room to slosh! Martin Stackpole uses this same item on his race car without any issues...What I will do oneday is get another bracket and cut it to bits, weld it back together and make the master cylinder sit flat(er)...easy!
However for me this thing is fine. The only time there is risk of the feed becoming full of air is if you have run out of fluid due to a leak, inwhich case your gonna crash a few miles later on a big one or your upside down on the roof, inwhich case the brakes aren't gonna help you or anyother design of cylinder. Feels less slack even dry!
My rear brake line parts didn't arrive today! Dang was hoping to do that job this evening...I am shagged anyway my feet hurt, my hands hurt and I have that tinglely worn out feeling!
Was hoping to pickup another 1300 FD engine tomorrow but looks like the weekend, the head will be given away (free to collector) and was gonna build up the bottomend ASAP as a spare for this one, nitrided crank this time and few more mods on the main bearing cap fixings...Like Josh suggested on the forum earlier!
Fitted some wipers and washer jets, more weight! Poo! Even a passenger wiper for JC so if it rains at the Ring he can still see, kind aren't I! Need some tube for string up my modern washer bottle, electric! Super cleaning power no push push thing....Need to get some door seal, more cash! Fit the hardtop as aerodynamics are simply useless without a roof, I recon the hardtop is worth over 10mph top end. Might make a boot spoiler too, or go to scrappies and find something suitable, less hassle, just a "gurney flap" sized item, about 2inches tall and hardly noticeable...thats something I got from josh, the science is right, should give a good top-end increase - maybe 3-4mph! Also cleans up the airflow and vacuum behind the car, that vacuum and swirl down the boot curve drags you backwards!
Finalised the wiring inside this evening, about time but I had been holding off until all the ignition stuff was fitted. Tidy! The brain unit will live by the wiper motor but I need to make a bracket. My 1950's XK120 Jaguar temp gauge is not reading properly, quite pissed off cause it was a great classic gauge! Its lost pressure I think, won't go over 68C....Need to fix that with another one, I only use piped and capillary gauges for temps as the response is instant, by the time electric smiths type have responded your engine is cooked!Note the Austin Mini buddle vent, this is glued into the heater hole, its a perfect fit and does give some cool air onto your legs and chest, mine anyway 8-)
Have to get this end can mounted up soon, if I run the car in the garage and add this pipe by hand onto the end of the other it gies silent! Gone are the booms that come from mine that rattle my neighbours windows and set of car alarms on mass....
Adjustable Clevis on the brake master cylinder to give some pedal position adjustment, had this on the stock master cylinder before, easy to make yours like this, simply cut off the stock clevis, thread the rod to 5/16th and buy a clevis from Rally Design for £3.
Flywheel fun, the rather ill lightened flywheel that came loose, didnt help I drove it home and also rev'ed it hard a few times before it became obvious it was loose! 7500! opps ... I could have had this area skimmed out and refaced but the dowel hole was ovalled and by the time I drilled another dowel hole and sorted it, it wasnt worth the hassle.
All the missing bits were spun welded onto the crank, blue from heat! Hardened and rather stuck on!
Need to make airbox too soon...
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