Sunday, July 21, 2013

Bye all.

Hey its Dave,

This part of my life is over.

....i earned my wings...

Tore up my license.

Im flying thesedays.

Hi to all the grounded ones.

Heh. Im happy, inside, all of the time. Bar when pigs are nibbling at my tail.

Smoke more ganja, do less.

Less is more.  Peace. Over and out, forever and ever.

Love. Apollo.aN

Saturday, November 21, 2009


The 325lb springs are much better.

Still far from soft.

Suspension has been totally changed in an effort to "calm" down the car :)

Raised the rear by removing the spring block but leaving it on the 2" down uprights holes.

Raised 1/2".

Front end raised a bit to match.

Camber at the back 3.8deg neg on each side (car aint a banana!)

Camber at front 1.4deg neg.

No toe angle at the front.

Adjusted rear toe angle to "more toe-in" setting was 1/32nd of an inch, made it 1 turn more toe-in on the rosejointed track arms.

Been trying to fine-tune the car a bit before more surgery. It got a bit "race" and without a 4cyl boat anchor at the front it's a different animal. I am now trying to find a good allround feel.

Pretty happy with the front-end now. Got alot less wheel movement transfering into chassis and tub movement on the new springs, probably got more grip with the 1.4neg camber over the more extreme levels before. Feels similar at lower steering angles but the lack of camber seems to have improved the grip deeper into the corner/steering angle, like mid corner when you often get understeer in the triumphs, especially 6cyl ones!

I was finding the rear-end a bit nervous with the extra power so I gave it more toe-in, which seems to have chilled it out a bit, especially lifting off and turning or braking and turning.

Best its been by a longshot. Went to extreme, just dawned on me oneday that my first spitfire was probably alot softer and more relaxed to drive.....Now there is no need for rock-hard springs cause it doesnt have an inbuilt handling /problem/imbalance with a 4cyl iron lump.

If the dampers had adjustment on the bump (AVO are just rebound, half the reason racers like 800lbs springs, cause they use shit dampers!) I reckon you run 250lbs springs. Problem is then running out of movement on the balljoint on the top wishbones at extreme bump. Ideally the top-wishbone mounting pivot needs moving upwards 1/2".

Either way a step forward.

Still enjoying occasional blats and not overly keen on taking it off the road yet!

Wednesday, November 04, 2009


Need a few fasteners to finish off but hardwork is done.

Happy with it.

Think it's cage time next. I've some interesting plans I drew up today. They are quite radical. A real move into a new level and should add ALOT of stiffness into the centre of the cabin and I can join this new stuff to the new suspension at the back...That's all I will say! ?I think I can bend the CDS with a hydraulic pipe bender would make my life much easier if I can go it alone.
Time to gather materials and take a break!

Tuesday, November 03, 2009

Annoyance Remedies

Bit sick of the dash reflecting on the windscreen so time to fix it. I've wanted to "sort" the dash anyway as I never really finished it.

Going for a simpe and sleek look.

Also neatens up the corners by the cage. Time to add a little vanity to the car.

Pretty easy work. Couple of bits of alloy, bit of drilling, sanding, cutting. The groups of 3 holes are there to let some warm air from the heater (thats not plumbed in yet) onto the window. Minimalist.

Made it in two parts cause that suited the piece of alloy I had to work with.

Trimmed up.


Just fills over what was an ugly gap. Powder coating on the cage was crap tempted to whip it out and get it done properly once I have done some mods to it.

Kind of impartial looking, that was the idea, not styled as such.
Gotta stick a bit more leatherette on the remaining white bit infront of todays panels.

Quite happy with that...I got an urge to carpet the car again, some of that thin stretchy stuff that you stick on with 3m spray glue. Not to worried about every gram now....Plus it's easy to deal with compared to white paint...

Intend to "finish" off numerous areas of the car like this dash business. Some of the stuff is a bit scrappy still. Plus I actually enjoyed making those panels..Wasted 8hrs on it.

Saturday, October 31, 2009

Some random wafflage

It's all still in one piece. Be good to take off the valances and give the engine bolts a tweak etc...I've really not even looked at it for months, or even bothered to recheck anything since I drove it first. It works...Thats the idea.

Yes its really bloody clean still isnt it. I like it clean...The aim would be to finish the car while its all still nice and shiney and mint...To get to a stage of a completed shiney monster. I hate tattytatt. Plus it helps to paint stuff well etc.

My new springs, bit smaller than the hi-tech stuff widely sold for these cars? :)

5" length, 2.25" and 325lbs. Under half the weight of the 9" springs of old, or current?!

Also picked up some bumpstop packers so I setup the max bump I want as these springs will allow some squidge.

Was going to fit these this morning but I decided I couldnt bothered.

Re suspension turret bracing the basic idea is to copy this idea below but a bit better made and welded.............

I can do this no issue on the driver side but the lower bar to the outrigger will have to wait till a 'zorst is sorted.
This will need something to link to on the inside.

Having been rubbernecking inside the car I can see a way to make this work.

I'll need to add a bar between the two sides of the dash just below the level of my dashboard.

This will run just over the gearbox tunnel and go behind the radio frame.

Obvious this means I can add some tangs to the new bar and bolt this to both the rollcage at either end and also to the radioframe via some tangs.

Radioframe is now quite a strong item being in one unit with a solid bolted alloy tunnel, this will really tie up the cabin.

Also works out well that the new bar will need a small kink at either end to allow it to pass behind the radioframe. Perfect cause I need to run two bars forward inside the car from this new bar to meet the new turret braces .

This bar it will be bolted to the bulkhead on the inside to sandwich the bulkhead between the two bar flanges.

The clever bit being I can join the bars inside the cabin to the new main lateral bar at the kink points rather than simply onto a straight bar that would flex a bit.

By putting the links onto a kink I get no flex and no real need to support this lateral bar to stop flex lengthways (a straight pole easy bends dunnit)...However it will be supported by bolting to the radioframe anyway at the middle of its length... the radioframe is solid mounted to the chassis and cannot flex back and forth as its supported by the tunnel...I reckon it's pretty solid and probably more solid than most of the original car!

So I have a plan anyway. It works out better this way as I can keep the supports from the turrets in-line through bulkhead and not kinked through pedals etc to meet the existing cage, if I had an angle change at the bulkhead this joint will just flex anyways.

I think I am aiming to stop the chassis flexing like a lengthways banana between the wheels and somewhere just behind the bulkhead, also stopping the rear of the turret/rear top wishbone pivot point squirming about.

The rear mount now takes all the force from braking effort / twist cause the front wishbone mount is braced via my beefy strut brace.

Also having tubes from the turret down to the outrigger is clearly essential to tie the lot together, although fun on my passenger side. I can do this job totally bar the passenger side which is good as I mentioned chopping the outrigger about.

I won't be making the front bars from anything as thick as those shown in the picture, total overkill I reckon as the lengths are very short, seen the tubes on a Caterham chassis? like pencils.

Yes it's adding some weight but I remember what a marked change it was just fitting the cage to the general stiffness with a few more bars here and there done with some thinking I am sure it'll be better prepared for 200HP.

Also one has to remember these chassis are all knackered by now anyway, gone like a piece of rubber after being work softened? :) for years, can use all the help they get. I reckon my chassis is arite through cause its not got a single plate welding on it and no corrosion.

This job might get my juices flowing again now sure I can be arsed with the suspension job yet.

Need to find someone to bend me some tube and get some materials.

Neighbours won't know whats hit em after 7months of quiet :)

Fear not DaveArseWide will be back in business soon, back and as bad ass as ever. Infact even more skilled cause I learnt alot stuff doing this car, didn't I.

Plus I have some "weapons" I have been sitting on I will have incorperate these into my projected schedule of events.