Monday, December 31, 2007

Packing and fitments, Brake options, Caterham, Alcon, Wilwood

Well went for a OMP Steering wheel, or atleast the auction-sniper did.

A bit modern, but I mean, look at the car? :) RRP for a similar one is £136

Good old ebay! New for £49.95.

Could wire the buttons up to give a momentary contact switch for the wipers and something else, if I adjust the wiring and add a relay or two! NOT more wiring!
Steering column is in, thats a simple grommet sealing it perfectly through the bulkhead. Only issue I see is that the grommet could wear and split, but then I'll just superglue it back in place.
Wiring tubed covering downsized to 7/8ths and alot neater.
Adjusted the heater mounts a bit so I can run a pair of special grommets on the outlet pipes. Rather than those silly foam seals... These will fit a 25-27mm hole and can be trimmed down to fit any size of the pipe up to 22mm. Perfect! provide all sorts of stuff! Well worth a look.

Old 12" wheel the new one 12.5"...I hear the measurements are usually less, so the new ones is more like 12" again.

Few images of tight packing.
About 8mm from the sump to the chassis.

Not much room here! again 8mm all over the front. Ok with the virtually hard mounted engine.

Didn't quite get the adjustment of the steering rack mount right, another snip and weld needed to stop the oil line rubbing,
Helps to be able to take the engine out etc :) Again 12mm here.

Manifold runs about 30mm from the bulkhead. The piece of pipe with the clip on will be removed at the collector and another piece added with gentle bend to run along the outrigger and join somewhere to facilitate the removal of the exhaust easily...Have to ponder than one. Not that happy with the manifold design, but its a caterham design, primaries miles too short, but its fine to 200HP you just don't get much torque from it...But then the engine will have more torque at 1200rpm than the Spitfire at max!
Alternator pretty close, will add some kind of shield or a bit of heat wrap on the exhaust here.
10mm clearance down the driver side bulkhead vertical.
Much more clearance this side, no need for a passenger clutch pedal is there!
About 15mm all round the filter.
Same here.
Engine can come out now for the LAST time! Chassis can have an apollo tank bracket added, turrets rubbed down, seam welded and the whole lot painted. I got a stack of stuff for etching and powdercoating. Then it really is the final build.

Not sure I can stretch to the quaife box atm but by the time the engine is ready I might be able to, need to find some more stuff to sell, I am running low! Maybe I should start taking paypal donations? :)

I got a brake kit to purchase first.

Still torn between Caterhams AP kit or Wilwood, the Midilite Wilwood have seals like the AP and are cheaper (£398+VAT). The caterham discs and parts are higher quality though me thinks and should, weight wise, I mean piston size, pads area etc, be near perfectly developed for my car...The Rally Design kits come with cheapo discs and no pads...I think the Caterham kit offers ok value for money even at £646.25 (inc VAT) Maybe I can get them to drop the brake lines and give me a better deal.

Caterhams Brake Upgrade kit uses very high quality "AP" discs or so I read...these are £120 EACH!!!!! No EBC tatt. They last forever and have mega friction levels...

I notice they run or advise a funny master cylinder for the AP kit, so thats a consideration to possibly account for. I could probably fit in the AP master cylinder using the wilwood master cylinder with no reserviour on the clutch.

Should just be a sizing issue of the bore, or maybe no issue at all.

EDIT: Major whining on the Caterham Forum about the AP Caterham Kit and using it without a special master cylinder, the pistons are too big for a normal one...1/3rd more travel atleast...I think these AP need a (0.815 AP) or 0.875" master cylinder. You could try a Wilwood M/C but you'd to experiment I think if the pedal is not to required standard. Oddly though some folks say its ok :) Gotta love forums.

I know Caterham make stuff to go onto cars like the CSR260, which is a f'ing fast, these cars can in production spec lap tracks all day etc (well maybe their reliability is not that great but the brakes and wheels stay on!) I trust their judgement, as their kit is raced on by vast numbers of cars every weekend. Where Rally Designs Wilwood kit probably isn't.

Factor in buying some nice pads for the the wilwoods £80-10

Its about an even call it £575 with VAT for wilwood kits and pads with basic discs and £646 for Caterham bit less if they will ditch the brake lines...I got quite friendly with the bloke from Milwood MC in Stroud, so see whats cooking with him. The AP have integrale mount lugs which I prefer the look of, and same for some Wilwoods, but the kits are always radially mounted with an anodised mounting block...Something else to flex...



Alcon Calipers . More info when I dig some up. These use normal Caterham discs. Non vented and large pads. I read ALOT of favourable reporting on the Caterham Owners Club about this kit. Its got smaller pistons than the AP so there is no master cylinder sizing issues and long pedals due to large piston sizes. People seem to like these alot, especially with PAGID pads. Which are the current favoured pad of everyone it seems.No vented discs which does concern me, not 100% sure of the Caterhams are using GT6 sized disks of Spitfire ones, the brake caliper would suggest a GT6 disk? With the right pads they really shouldn't be that important provided the discs are good quality. Lighter too! Ponder that.

I am liking this Alcon lark, I like good quality components rather then just an overkill of lower quality stuff, ie massive crap disks and pads, when really high quality pads and disks will do a better job etc.. Factoring in the possible master cylinder experiments, the Caterham setup is getting expensive. You need to consider the piston sizes when buying calipers unless you like a 2" pedal of mush. If the Alcons can be used with a GT6 disk and some *gulp* £100+ Pagid pads (that last forever) I'd be tempted to give it a roll...

These megaexpensive pads will last 3-5x longer than Mintex or EBC. I read these Alcons were tested at Nurburgring in a Vauxhall engined Caterham and did the 24hr race with one set of really good pads...My car ate 2/3rds of a set of Mintex 1144 in 12laps of the Ring and about 40laps of Combe and a hand full of road miles...Thats about 3hrs track driving.

With alloy hubs, my 7075 wheel nuts, superlite alcon calipers and non-vented disks it might be 6kilos per side lighter in unpsrung mass than the normal GT6 setup! About half the mass!

Not a single gripe with these Alcons on the forum, bar someone moaning about fade with greenstuff pads, but thats hardly suprising, but need some further debate on it. My car is probably not that far off an SV caterham with all the trimmings in it.


Also the clutch is a 1600 Capri plate I think. I will need to consider buying an uprated clutch plate of the same O/D to ensure it doesn't blow itself to bits. I am very light on clutches and don't to burn outs or 0-60 timing much if ever, but I'd rather nor find its inadequete for the shear power.

Saying this removing the engine is a DODDLE! The exhaust manifold, carbs, fair ilter, water system (complete), engine mounts all come out as one unit. No need to undo or remove anything bar water and electric connection and the main exhaust pipe...All the water system, ancillaries come out attached to the motor or engine mounts. Forward planning has its benefits.

I should get my 2nd cheque from adsense soon, the adverts are here for your benefit...Sooner they start paying the sooner I can buy a quaife box :)

Suppose I should be out enjoying the celebration of another wonderful New Year for the human-race...sound a bit boring to me!

Anyway after the massive house parties we used to have that went on for days or weeks (no comment), a beer in the pub seems a bit dull to be honest :)

Sunday, December 30, 2007

Steering Rack and Joint

Bit of a new old stock fan, proper AE trackrod ends.

From "trydaveforit" on ebay. Wash out the old grease in cellulose thinners and fill them again.

Tarted up my rack.
Always use these joints now, from a 2000 or 2500 saloon I think. Superstrong and tight, no rubber tatt.

Similar thing above.

RareBits4Classics also sells something similar.

With the 2000/2500 type you need to enlarge the turret hole the steering rack goes through a bit, but these other types will fit ok, but may require the rack to be giggled a bit side to side if the pinch bolt hits them.


....a few days of rest and well needed relaxation over the festive season, no automotive activities at all, I did venture into the garage today.

I fitted my heater. The first time the car has seen a heater for sometime. Really an essential item on a road car purely for demisting. It'll be cold as a wet kipper in there now the exhaust is a side-exit, no floorpan warming on longtrips...

Now I will need to figure out a decent way to plumb this into the water system or account for it atleast.

Shall finally fit the steering column tomorrow too, then I just need to find some covering for the dash. A hole cutter arrived today so I can cut the gauge holes...

Wiring and layout are loads better than before. I moved the starter motor powerlead out of the main loom tubing and reduced the tubings size down to the next step down and stuck the powerlead along the inner sill.

Friday, December 28, 2007

Steering Wheels

Been pondering a new wheel.

The old style mountney is ok but I'd like something nicer.

The MOMO, SPARCO and OMP wheels with a 6 bolt flange pattern have opposing bolts on a 70mm spacing and 35mm between each bolt. These do not fit the older mountney boss as the bolt pattern is smaller...The older mountney kit is 100mm between opposing centres.

This means though that by using a Mountney "M" Range, ie modern Mountney Boss kit...on 6 bolt 70mm pattern.

You can fit any 6 bolt wheel on a 70mm pattern (ie anything)

Also some specialised wheels come on a 3 bolt pattern such as ALPHA, SPA and some Sparco etc...

You can fit these to a NORMAL old style Mountney boss with some modification? to the boss by using this adaptor.

You can fit 3 bolt wheels to the Mountney M range boss using this adaptor below.

So no excuses to be mistified about Steering Wheels is there?

I quite liked with one...I never usually move my hands from 10 and 2 even under extreme conditions, so it would be nice to have a better grip here.

Summing up

To draw a line under this under episode, some things are clear.

I shall not publish any of the correspondences that been kindly sent as this would unfair to those involved, or those who have kindly proffered an opinion to me.

Oddly no one in objection has voiced any opinion at all.

Some things are clear though.

That is that the greater majority of people who I class as having good skills or individually technically minded thinkers believe have been fully been within my rights to make comments I have, and have hit a nail on its head with everything said about the handling of this situation.

Seems that those in disagreement just have some fragility issues, or other personal motives.

It’s been made clear by no less than 5 skilled technically minded people (sorry there aren’t that many gracing our arena) that I should feel it’s a complement I am seen as a threat? That they see this is main driving force behind certain people motives.

It’s clear that people showing support, do not necessary agree with me on other views I hold, just in this case. As to be expected.

It’s ironic that some of the very same people whining about poorly made or reconditioned parts after long distance events do not hold the same views when it affects people they are friends with etc.

It’s clear within the club there are advocates of mine and people who wish I’d disappear.

Flattering for me the advocates outnumber those who are disparaging by 50 to 1. So the opinions of certain biased individuals acting on personal feeling or personal motives do not bother me at all.

Its clearly shown decisions made on things relate to; if you are in favour with the “chosen” ones.

It’s clear some Officers do their very best to remain impartial, where a small minority of others are driven by alternative motives, this has been the main overriding factor in all my personal correspondences and it’s VERY clear that a lot of people agree here, oddly not those involved! Agreement regardless of whatever they told by those in question, an opinion formed well before this BLOG affair.

This opinion has been expressed in the majority of my correspondences (and there are plenty!) with people I’d class as “standalone” or “rocks” either in technical or personal acumen. Also that certain individuals need to remember they are not elected democratically to act on the clubs behalf.

It seems the only real objection to my BLOG has come from a VERY small group of people. The same people who are always on my case, or swinging about like weathercocks in the wind.

For example one officer says he’d like to see my car on the front page of the magazine after I kick up some debate over the fact I do not find the mag that interesting, obviously supporting my view at this time.

Then I mention something about some products sold by his mate, the wind has changed 180degrees.

A typical example of weathercock politics.

People need to be like James C or Tim B in these Officer roles, not suited to people who are not impartial or pragmatic enough to distance themselves from personal feelings and differentiate between different situations.

I have no time for these people anyway.

One thing that is clear is that a lot of people admire someone who will fight their own corner. As one said “act like a doormat, you’ll get used as one”.

It’s clear quite a lot of people believe I have uncanny ability to cut through shit with a hatchet, especially when other people are stuck in it, or cannot see the wood for the trees.

Rather like the car I built entirely by my own hand cut through cars 98% of the cars at Castle Combe bar a Caterham R400, V8 MGB and Andy V’s racecar.

Like a hot hatchet through butter, cars with all manner of “tuning” parts on….

I have clearly had a lot of support created from my work and advice given out and should take confidence from this. It’s clear that the opinions of a small minority should in no way effect the way I go about things.

I do not have interest in collaboration or supplying anyone with any products I make. I can make, sell and develop my own products; I do not have interest in working with anyone currently producing products, if I decided to develop some.

I will ensure anything made is miles better than whats currently available, so creating my own market. No need to steal anyones business, products talk.

Its clear people are all too willing to add personal feelings to things and try to make things black and white, good and bad driven by these feelings, strange when there is no motive on my side bar the interests of information and the greater good of people, as usual.

It’s obvious that if someone produces products that don’t fit etc they should not be selling them in the first place. It’s not my problem if I talk about. Why people need to defend other people from me, is beyond my comprehension to be honest. It just shows how fragile their foundations are?

I know if I started punting out products they will fit, be made correctly, and test items prior to production will be made by hand and adapted or altered before final production, and there is no chance I would sell something that doesn’t fit etc. Either through naivety, or directly or indirectly motivated.

It’s clear that a small group of people take my “will” to comment on such issues as destructive. It’s only destructive if you are the cause the problem in the first place.

Once again I find flattering that those who I respect in technical aspects, agree fully with me in this case. There is no smoke without fire. I did not start the fire I just stoked it a bit. I do not know a single person who disagrees with the base issue, alteast not anyone not harbouring some personal baggage.

Whether I should go public with my findings is just a matter of opinion, like arseholes, we all have one.

I do sometimes wonder if I am in a “sane” minority.

End of Story.

Normal technical and car related postings will be back to normal from this point onward, unless there is need to get the hatchet out again.

Club TeleTubbies Blog Roll

Check it out!

Daily Stats

I changed over my stat counter system at 4pm today.

You may notice I have a pair of counters on the site now.

Since 4pm (its now 00:44am). We have had.

108 individual unique hits.
328 page impressions.
11 returning visitors.

3 of these came from the link Andy Thompson added to his CT blog, directly from CT.

59 individual hits came from bookmarks.

About 13 from Triumph Owners searching yahoo and google for various things.

The rest from YouTube, where this site is mentioned on every video and other random sites and interweb locations.

I had been experiencing around 375-600 page impressions per day for the last 18months...

So it seems little has changed in all reality.

Infact I am actually up on recent hit levels the last 72hrs !

To be fair CT hits from the blog page never featured at anything over 1/15th of my total traffic, I can see where all the traffic is coming from. I have never bothered to really look before...Buts its actually very interesting!

I shall be cutting back on the time I spend answering technical questions on the CT forum in a view to giving it up entirely and just using it socially, while I develop my own atleast. I will then completely divorce from technical assistance there or advise of any form.

Here's a few of the last hits...No idea who those lonely gits in Australia are? :) :D

Some bloke on NTL from Reading, near London is the longest visitor, spent 6hrs on the blog earlier...No idea who that is :)

Here is what folks hunt yahoo etc for and find my blog. My blog is usually always in the first page on any google and yahoo search related to Triumphs.

28 Dec
carboned pistons

28 Dec
carboned pistons

27 Dec
crazy spitfire

27 Dec
rotoflex rear end versus swing spring

27 Dec
rotoflex rear end versus swing spring

27 Dec
rotoflex rear end versus swing spring

27 Dec
dellorto alfa 1300 settings

27 Dec
dave sideways blog

27 Dec
dave sideways blog

27 Dec
triumph spitfire windscreen frame

27 Dec
triumph spitfire windscreen frame

27 Dec
spitfire k serires engine

27 Dec
triumph spitfire zetec engine conversions

27 Dec
spitfire hardtop

27 Dec

27 Dec
moss wheel nuts lotus elise -stirling

27 Dec
spitfire rear end set-up

27 Dec

27 Dec
spitfire with jaguar engine

Thursday, December 27, 2007

Bit of News....

Maybe of interest.

I brought 5 domain names the other day and have a decent deal on some webhosting.

I shall be putting a site together over the coming months.

This will include a forum, blog links, member and car profiles, some interactive elements etc.

During its inception period (years?) it will be free of charge and free for all to use and quite relaxed in nature, time will tell where things lead and there is no commercial or great intentions for it as a standalone resource. Simply an independant forum. If things kick off there will opportunities for Gurus to add their input.

Its time I put my online time into something useful or where its rewarded, people seem to think its a privilage for me to be somewhere...?

I have been speaking to various people about the best way to implement such a thing.

For the time being this will be a personal website, but may eventually develop into a commercial venture as I intend to expand various things I have been considering for a few years. Not bothered how things turn out, things will progress at a natural pace and end up where they end up.

The site will be solely funded from my own pocket at this stage.

The site will welcome owners of pretty much any marque, but will ground its routes in the current arena.

You never know, before long I can probably speak to other car clubs and get the Triumph boys more trackdays and events etc, sprinting afternoons and car control fun and skid sessions at MIRA etc.

I have plenty of time to spend on things :)

Don't poke the bear!

BTW you can contact me

My suggestion for new Club Triumph Blogging Rules

I think they need some solid RULES to gain a degree of parity in the decisions made, rules that take away the power of the Moderators and Officals to remove any personal bias that maybe harboured.

The current rule change leaves it all open to opinion of those making the judgements which is what caused this BLOG to leave the Club.

I do not see the new rules as any use at all, they are open to opinion.

Time to get tough if you want equality.


Rules for bloggers by agreeing to have your BLOG instated on this website you are hereby in full agreement with the following terms and conditions.

We have a duty of care to all users and members of the club to try to give a true and fair view to ensure club integrity to both club members and businesses associated with the Triumph marque.

This includes anything hosted on our website that is not necessarily directly related to Club Triumph.

1, You may not use your BLOG or Signature/User profile to advertise services, products, websites (future or present or in development) for any commercial or profit making purpose.

This includes using the BLOG of any other Members hereby instated on the site for any form of advertising directly or indirectly on products present or future, as bound by terms in this agreement (our right to decide).

You may not use a BLOG to make suggestion of any products or services for commercial purpose, even on a trial or test basis, including offering out new products for testing on a non-commercial or trial basis.

2, You may not review, overview or even make mention of any product you have received in any format, unless, the wording suggests the product is impeccable, reliable, safe and perfectly made.

You must not make any judgements on any products unless the judgements are 100% positive.

You must not make any judgments on any product you recieve that could be deamed as negative.

You may not make any mention of any issues or problems with any product supplied by anyone.This includes making mention of any problems with any product supplied by a profit making or commercial outfit, even if not mentioning the supplier of the said product, people with more knowledge or inside knowledge may still be able to trace the source.

This includes mentioning any problems with fit, fitment, durability, lifespan, tolerances, design issues or any issues that may draw any negative conclusion by the reader of the BLOG.

You must not make any comments that could damage the image of a product (standalone in its own right) or trader, directly or indirectly.

This includes second-hand products given to you free or sold on any classified or auction sites or obtained by any method, this includes stolen goods, items found lying in the street or sourced from anywhere on the Planet Earth.

This includes any item that can be traced back to a supplier that is currently trading, has traded is defunct or any individuals alive or deceased.

3, You must NOT make personal comments, or comments made to / or about any individual or trader past or present without their written consent and authorisation.


Bit "tongue in cheek" but you get the idea? :)

Gives power to RULES, NOT PEOPLE.

Rules are Rules, most people are weathercocks, not signposts.

Well I don't think it went to plan....

Whatever cock-up decision was made over this Blog at CT?

I could have happily removed this blog, quietly and uncaring, instead we get a thread with 1500 hits in 48hrs?

Any issues relating to this Blog and its position at Club Triumph, could have been easily fixed with a simple phonecall/email. I have for about 1 month been tempted to pull this blog from the site anyway, you only had to ask me :)

Reason, I am sick to death of double standards and seemingly wildly varying decisions on such matters and it was time for an assessment of the future.

This has been beaten out fully now anyway, if you hadn't noticed :) Anyother wrangling that develops will be reported here in due course, in full without any lack of detail.

Really in my opinion, by pulling this Blog without any consultation, its a basic display of simple incompitence by the whoever is pulling the strings here, or having their strings pulled for them, knowingly or not...You have watch who is driving the bus....

I must say the tonne of support thats flooded into my email and PM's has been overwhelming. I guess the fact that for each message I post on the forum, I post one privately via email and spend vast amounts of time in private retort with people is proving its worth! Thank you guys!

Your opinion is what matters most. You are what matters. You are your own maker. Do not be shat on!

Monday, December 24, 2007

Back to the important stuff.

Back to funky wheel nuts.

46grams for the old silver one. 18grams for the new one. Look to be well made to me.

Beast has a completed wiring loom after some further works the other evening.

Being as blog is now not attached to any Clubs and will never be attached to any again, you can expect fully documented and lengthy product and fitment reviews of everything that comes my way. Rather like anyother resource reviewing products.

I will be at the next trackday after my car is done, if anyone wishes to discuss anything with me...You can form an orderly line and will be more happy to discuss any issues mono-e-mono. I suggest doing this before I offer you a ride. I harbour no hard feelings, you're welcome to berate me and I will gladly return the favour with a few stiff laps in the passenger seat. Nothing like a bit of pent up tension to release and inspire some fast lapping.

If there are no more trackdays I have no interest in Club Membership, it offers me nothing of great interest to be frank. I give up hours of my time to assist people on the forum, I could put my efforts into something that is valued by those receiving, directly or indirectly, a boost from the benefit of my experience/s, such as my own Website/Forum and information resource.

One thing that is proven, is that when you poke a sleeping dog.....

This blog and its author David John Powell are now covered by a user agreement, by reading / viewing or accessing this blog you are in FULL agreement with the terms and conditions layed out on the header on the right-hand side. If you do not agree with these terms please do not access this blog, leave now, by reading this blog you (the reader)are now bound to its terms and conditions from its inception, without exception . This relates to any posting made at anytime past, present or future. Thanks, David

How interesting!

So it seems simple opinion is too much for Club Triumph.

Its ok for Jason to post things about people on his blog. I hate double standards! Its PATHETIC.

Club Officers don't like it when you post things about their favourite traders, you know who you are.

You will not see this blog gracing the CT site anymore.

Also a cover-up is in progress with two threads relating to the removal of this blog being removed from the forum.

I guess they will ban the main technical guru next.

What is CT, a CLUB or a DICATORSHIP run by a club of masons? Clubs are about PEOPLE.

Noone has EXPRESSED any opinion or given me any notice any this.

I am being moderated!

To all who have given this blog 258,456 hits in the last two/three years, I thank you greatly! I guess the 16,000 CT hits really factor little into my site traffic.

I have seen this Blog featured on LandRover Forums, Rover Forums, Lotus Forums and god knows elsewhere!

Caterham Upright / Hub Kits

Been playing with a Canley supplied kit.

Firstly no instructions supplied.

Which is not ideal, as the hub assembly and fitting proceedure IS NOT AS PER A TRIUMPH.

Instructions are important.

If you do the castle nut up finger tight and back it off to get the pin in and you could damage the stubaxle and suffer leakage of grease and scuffing wear on the spacer/shims and castle nut.... Its hard to describe but looking at the unit assembled its not designed to operate as per normal. Won't bore you with details.

Caterham specify a torque figure of 11mn or 8 ft-lbs for the enlarged nut, not much endfloat! A bit more than finger tight! Back very off slightly if needed to get the pin in.

Not a free castle nut and held by the pin as per normal.

This may help. It certainly helps you assemble them correctly as at £225 its not out of order to print out two sheets of paper to help people do it RIGHT.

There is (in my opinion) a problem to fix with the CC SPORT lower bearing carrier. Having chatted to Caterham the Lower Spherical bearing should be a FIRM fit in the carrier. This is BASIC engineering. A spherical outer case just as with a bearing race must be a tolerance fit in a housing to stop it moving, rotating and eating the carrier/seat area. Any play in such a part will create rapid wear. Lucky the carrier will rust and corrode, as any metal part will and this will take up the slack if you're lucky...Great!

Sadly the Canley supplied housing/carrier is 3.5thou 0.0035" oversized (opinion of two micrometers)the bearing just falls in and out and clonks from side to side when the carrier is perfectly clean and shaken when assembled with the bearing in it (opinion of my ears), the bearing is loose and will be osilating over each bump and the hardened steel outer casing of the bearing will be damaging and increasing the oversized opening on each bump/corner or small stone. So looks like a couple of sets of proper bearing carriers need to made, to correct tolerances, will need to be made to ensure reliable and safe service.

What lead me to find this out was firstly I dismantle EVERYTHING I lay my hands on. But what triggered this, was the unit, upright and carrier, came assembled.

I was wiggling the upright and carrier around as you do, I noticed the stiffeness I'd expect from a lined spherical joint when moving the carrier and upright back and forth etc...I then noticed if you moved it as you would when steering, round and round that there was no friction...This is cause the spherical bearing is rotating freely in the carrier, the outer body of the bearing is free to rotate in the housing. ...the outer of a spherical should never move in a housing and be a press fit and the centre of a two piece spherical does all the work, fore-aft-left-right..

CC Housing bearing opening is 1.91" and the bearing is 1.875" (just a normal Size 10 spherical from NMB or any other supplier with a 0.675" hole and 0.500 thickness - COM10) the housing should be slighty oversize for a PRESSFIT. You cannot have a spherical loose in its housing! You could use loctite bearing seal etc but its bodge.

Interesting to the see (in my opinion) the bearing carrier had been machined again after it had been plated and finished?( possibly, in my opinion) to remedy a design misconception related (I presume, purely opinion of putting two and two together) to the fact the threaded part normally where a trunnion goes on, was presumed to come out straight from the main upright body, but obviously this doesn't come out of the upright body vertically, but at an angle...(castor)...

Carriers were made, with oversized housing (in my opinion), plated and re-machined again account for the angle of the threaded part in relation to the main upright body, so to increase the rake angle of the carrier. As maybe it was presumed the carrier and bearing should be flat and at 90degrees respectively to the wishbone..Where as the stub on the upright required the carrier to be angled upward at its greatest extremity from the wishbone...hense the bare metal showing, done after plating?

Couldn't fault the Caterham parts at all. Bar re-PCD'ed hubs cause of the fitment of standard wheel studs that needed a special tool made (from an old BMW piston pin and a press to remove. Uprated hub kit? Why no uprated studs? No-one uses the normal little studs.

I prefer M12 1.5pitch 67mm long, not 3/8th with a 30mm stud with an alloy wheel (thicker than steel) hanging on a tiny stud with a just a few threads engaged...Best to supply such an item without studs fitted, due to the alloy construction and give the punter a number of options, including an uprated stud and nut kit. Race-Scruts like to see thread poking out the wheel nut. Not that I'd even consider driving a fast road car on the stock studs let alone go racing!

I will get enough flack for posting this basic fact, so I will not add any PERSONAL opinion on this. Purely engineering comment, backed up by my micrometer and plenty of photographs.

This is why the Germans have STRICT - TUV (government product)Testing and Legislation...

This is a not a dig, its a design problem...Someone should have just gone in the original direction!

***Opinions in this post are purely my own and may not resemble those put forward by others, they serve no other reason than no relay my daily experiences in the form of an internet diary. Information put forward here is to the best of my knowledge accurate, however is purely offered as opinion. However any information relayed in the above posting is backed up by the opinion of 2 certified engineers who are happy to write a report on the above items and supply fully documented reports if required.

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Fancy wheel nuts

Forged from 7075 alloy in Japan.
Kind of not sure you have picked anything up "light"...

Similar thing on my mates 968 Porsche as standard equipment.

Now guess which colour I got?

Wednesday, December 19, 2007


This is the finished mount.
Like so, you won't bust these suckers seat is solid as a rock. Moves back and forth on the runners. I won't bother to weld the top-hats into the floor, no need. Makes adjustment easier too. Another item for powdercoaters.
Adjusted the rest of the belts and shortened the excess strapage. Really comfy. I am so happy with this seat, its the dogs-do-da's.
Plenty of strapage :) Ball breaker straps are comfortable enough.
Also about 2" of rearward movement should I allow anyone to drive it that is taller than I :)
Another job bites the dust.

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

High-Tech Seat mountings.

After a shortwhile, about 5minutes of pondering how best to get the seat adjustable for both height, rake, angle and corner to corner etc I came to this idea.

These special bolts came from 15kilos of stuff I poached from a skip :)

Sadly the only die I haven't got is 7/16th so a trip to the engineering shop needed. The main bolts will be threaded to the top. Shortened as needed.

These nice black head allen bolts of 3/8th thread will be shortened then hold the seat runner to the main bolt.
I welded some big penny washers to some tophats, these will be welded into the floorpan. The main bolt can screw right through the top-hats and a large penny washer be fitted under the floor and nylock on the end.
Pretty shit hot with the MIG now :)
They need more work obviously...The but the tophat will be welded to the floor, so the rake, side to side, height can be adjusted by loosening the small allen bolts holding down the seat runner then using a spanner on the top of the main bolts all, some or as needed, moving them up and down as needed in relation to the fixed tophats on the floorpan:) TOTALLY adjustable seat and all using super high quality fasteners.
Below gives an idea. Nice neat solution. Not overly light, but your life is a bonus.
Got the driving position like a warm slipper, supported perfectly, legs in the perfect place, steering wheel perfect. Kind of seating position you could drive in to the moon and back without a single ache :)


Fitted the throttle pedal and uprated the cable.
Cable outer has been replaced with some -3 braided hose :) Its basically the same as a linered cable. Smooth! Its like silk, I mean super smooth. See how long it lasts, filled it with chainlube. Should be fine. The bolt infront of the cable is to adjust the position of the accelerator when fully closed, so if you need to adjust the pedals to get a decent heel and toe its no bother...Also the pedal can be rotated 15degrees either side of upright by loosening the lower bolt on the bulkhead and moving it, again to get the best position, the hole has been ovaled slightly you see.
Thats the basic pedal setup...Same spacing as before etc.
Nice and simple and neat.

Monday, December 17, 2007

Spot the difference

From humble routes. The first day it was aimed at a hole.

To something a whole lot better. Almost like they were made to be together :)
Good news on the valances, I can collect the moulds sometime in the future and have been offered bootlid moulds too on a loan. Shant expect any movement for a while. I'll try to get a load of materials too and a lesson or two. Negotiations will continue for the time being.

Bit of fitting up

Did a bit on Matt's, not as much as I wanted, cause its been bloody cold!

I also seem to have picked up a pathetic cold from a mates kids...First bloody cold in 6years! Its a pathetic cold or my immune system is bombproof? Its just annoying one nostril and seemed to be beaten about 4hrs after it started this afternoon. Its gone now!

Fitted a few parts. Coil Pack.
Took the play out the throttle pedal and enameled it.
Made some stainless load spreading plates for the pedal box, which is now in for the last time.
Not going to fit this oil deairing tank yet, but I'll need to weld in a bracket to the chassis for it mount on, so been considering its location, plumbing and how to drain it.
Lucky I got a box of goodridge fittings on ebay for £76 :)
Basically I will run it with the remote filter alone for now, check what the temp gets too when under load, when its all tuned, make a choice about whether to use an laminova water to oil cooler or not, then either plumb in the tank alone, or string the tank into a system with the heat exchanger. I'd like to run a laminova anyway as it heats the oil before it cools it, so aiding the ability to boot the engine earlier on cold days etc. K's likes close water and oil temps and nice constant readings, part of the reason caterham engines don't blow head gaskets.

It's very easy...The top pipe I am holding is the exiting oil from the pump. This goes into the top of the tank...Oil comes out the bottom with air removed, this can then either go to a Laminova which will sit under the carbs and back to the remote filter housing, or simply back without the laminova, back to the remote filter from the bottom of the tank...and back into the engine after filtering. It looks good. This tank also helps mild surge as it stores pressure for brief times when the pump is sucking air.

I will add two extra pipe retaining rings, I'll mill up, to the engine mount on the driver side ready for a laminova if needed. Futureproofed!

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Bit cold innit


Spitfire Mk1-2-3 and GT6 Mk1-2 Valances

Currently trying to gauge any level of interest in a production run of these aero valances. These are made from dual skinned epoxy composite and not GRP or Fibreglass. Made by an Airbus panel maker to the same spec as the doors.

Possible pure carbon-fibre items available also?
Price around £200 per item.

Express any interest to davidpowell(at)

To be frank, if you are NOT SERIOUS don't bother to express interest. This is not a profit venture!


Ebay is such fun.

Bar when you run out of stuff to hunt for!

It happened a shortwhile ago. I was in an ebay frenzy for 12months sourcing everything on the cheap. It was an important part of my evenings!

Now I really cannot think of anything to ebay. Before I had a list of about 100items..

I am now down to the odd weekly hunt for AP calipers, wheels and heat exchangers and a stuff that comes along as needed.

Have to get the Spit finished off and think about whats next...

Was tempted to pickup a Lotus Europa wreck (renault one or engineless) cheap as possible and wedge a standard VVC K-series in it with no mods bar uprated halfshafts and brakes, retrim it, make it respectable but not anything like my spitfire and use it as my dailydriver :) just need a solid tub and chassis with suspension on and wiring loom and shoestring the rest by making it all and painting and doing everything myself.....but thats a bit of pipedream atm.

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Brake upgrade

Could use some funds for my braking upgrade.
Looking to get shot of this lot its all 5000miles old.

1/4worn set of Mintex... they are 1144. They were spares I had.

Two barely used Discs, solid, not warped, good quality branded.

Stub axles were new a while back, both uprights are sound, thread is better on one than the other, ie one is as new, one shows small amount of wear (came off my motor so nothing to bad). Can supply a better one in the deal and fit the stub axle. Bearings and hubs have been cleaned out ready for new grease, bearings numbered to go back in the correct hub. Its all painted to a reasonable standard.

Calipers are TYPE16 reconditioned and supplied about 5000miles ago, just been enameled and have had new seals fitted again.

You basically just need two trunnions.

All the fixings are in a bag.

Will throw in some new nylocks etc. Assemble the uprights so you just have to add the trunnions and grease the hubs and bearings and fit hubs.

Look for £275 the lot. Obviously its all used, however it needs NO cash spent on it and it should last ages.

Bare in mind the calipers alone are £200 if you have none to hand in and get the surcharge added.

Thursday, December 13, 2007

Chilly Willy - First Carbon Fibre Part :)

I am sure freezing outside is good for you.

Spent the evening fixing some carbs. Till my hands were so cold I couldn't do anything with them :)

So I did another job! Actually bloody quick I only started it an hour ago.

Used some wood to find the centres on the carbs...By hammering the wood into the studs then drilling through to get a pattern.
Found some carbon fibre sheet today. So here is a backplate for the filter I quickly cut out. (yes my toes are cold its good for you! Frost bite is good)
I retained the locking clips from some filter ages ago that was horrible and came on some carbs, never throw anything away!
Like so.
Easy enough.
Backplate weights nothing.
Just have to drill the remaining 4 barrel holes to complete.
I like!
Cost £0.