Finally a warm day! 9C, like summer compared to the last week!
Found a dipstick and tube at the scrappies, was missing off the motor. Needed that to check location for the engine mounting.
Did start having a fiddle with oneside of the water system, the side that enters the motor.
I think I will stay with this layout, the only thing I will change is to make the main length of blue pipe over the suspension turret from alloy...
I can then get a bracket or two welded onto this alloy pipe piece. I can then bolt the pipe to the turret this saves making any form of mounting for the EWP (water pump), it can happily hang...Simple is best!
Cunningly, I should then not have to buy any more hose by making the main outlet side to the rad from alloy also, being as this will be right over the exhaust manifold rubber etc isn't really suited.
As usual I modified some pieces.
The water rail can be seen in earlier pictures, this runs round the back of the engine along the block under the carbs to the thermostat housing...I simply hacked this off main water pipe at the thermostat end leaving enough for a flare and to get a clip on...
The thermostat housing is plastic and kind of pushes into the block. A future mod could be to punch out the entire thermostat housing and weld in an alloy tube to get rid of the plastic and remaining thermostat housing.
I removed the thermostat mech from the thermostat itself, leaving a simple disc with a hole as with the EWP and controller, no need for a thermostat so now there is one K Series problem gone, the dodgy thermostat system.
The black thing is the thermostat...Freelanders now have a remote thermostat kit available and caterham have used one for a while? Not on my list anyway.
The remains of the thermostat thing its simply there to make life easier now! The other pipe hole will be bunged up.
Thats the basic idea, EWP sits in the lower half of the radiator, so easily primed for bleeding. All the hose is from the last engine, cost £0.
Water pump doesnt need a power sapping impeller blade lark, so I cut these off.
Wasn't sure whether to pull it all off by cutting the shrunk on flange and popping it off, maybe its the only thing holding the unit together? decided to just hack off the impellers instead, quick saw and wiggle snapped them off, quick file and jobs a gooden...Sadly you need the water pump drive cog for the timing belt eh, so can't just plate the whole thing and junk it.
Impellers be gone!
Spacer for the clutch 25mm.
The other side of the water system wont be so easy as the clearance is quite tight and I can't get to it yet, until I make some front engine mounts and hack the bulkhead down more, bulkhead is currently shaved and cut just enough to hold the engine at the right angle to make front mounts.
I also need an Elise or MGF alternator as the lugs dont line up on my micro Kubota Denso one and would need more time and hassle than its worth to fit it. Also I need the alternator before I make the passenger side engine mount as clearance looks tight, also belt to check a few other things. It'll all come together quick at some point!
Only real pain in the wallet is getting this VVC head cam'ed up properly...and the exhaust.
If things come together well I will get the thing off for an exhaust fitting ASAP.
Still want a side exit exhaust, means I lower it more (at the front):)
Oil system needs looking at, need a block of billet to make a remote take off and take into account future intension to fit both oil cooler and apollo tank...
I intend to make use of the old engine mount points to add a strut brace type thing this can double as mounting place for this apollo tank and the oil catch tank/crankcase breather? Not alot of room elsewhere!
Manifold fits! Carb clearance by the clutch master cylinder is a bit close but should be ok!
So the project now owes me?
£280 previous count - engine, bellhousing, flywheel mods, clutch...undeniable bargain!
£2.50 for a dipstick
£10 for some steel.
£78 for an inlet manifold
£160 clutch slave cylinder -spacer etc.
£5 on grinder discs and hacksaw blades.
Some costs I will soon encounter below:
Will need a starter motor, the Ford ones bake with manifold heat and heavy, no good, the original Caterham Magnetron ones are unreliable and don't like heat, click click click is a well known noise to a Caterham owner with a 4 branch manifold.. Bosch ones are really big and cost a fortune - but luckily Caterham sell a "Brize" starter motor for £126, which is actually a bargain as Brize want £189 for what seems the same thing. To fit most of the starters listed i'll need an adaptor plate anyway, for £35, bar the Brize which has one built on...So its cost is better and its best starter!
£126 starter motor
£30 Pair of Jaguar E-Type 4.2 6 cyl engine mounts ~(Caterham use these)...
£10 on some alloy tubes for watersystem.
£20 to make rear water manifold
£30 to make an oil take off ready for plumbing fittings.
£25 remote oil filter mount
£40 for some oil lines from take off to filter point.
£40 shorten and balance prop.
£20 ignition trigger wheel custom size.
So hopefully have a mounted, plumbed engine for £1000 ish
Leaving two painful expenses but not a fat lot of work left.
