Saturday, September 13, 2008

Brakes 2

Popped out today, got 4metres of copper pipe and fittings, borrowed an expensive flaring tool. Ordered a bias adjuster, the plan for the weekend is route the brake pipe to the back via the cockpit and get it ready for fluids, need to fit some new rear wheel cylinders. Make up my front brake lines after testing a few layouts.

Assembly of the hub/brake system went well, however I cannot hardbolt it down yet as I need to source some special bolts for the disc to hub arrangement. Obviously these are not included in the canley parts or the caterham parts! You need special hex head allen bolts with a 10mm shank. The shank allows perfect location of the disc to the hub and means the shank holds it all nicely together.

I need to order these from caterham as they are a special item.

Obvious not mentioned by anyone selling the stuff.

A joy to buy something, first thing for ages that requires NO adjustment or fixing!

Anyone using the caterham hub kit needs to note the proceedure for assembly is different to normal, you do not allow endfloat in the hub...

Stick it all together, do the castle nut up as hard as two fingers allow, then spin the hub 10times, you'll see the nut rotates a bit and does itself up as the bearings seat, again do it up as hard as you can with the ends of your fingers, 1 finger each side, (thumb and finger 1), this will be about 5-6ft/lbs. Now spin the hub again and you shouldn't find you can add anymore tension.You will find the split pin should go through now.

You do not BACK OFF the nut. It's obvious if you leave the nut loose or back it off one flat all the grease will piss out between the stubaxle and the bearing and the spacer/castle nut. The bearings have seals on, rubber, these MUST NOT rotate with the hub, the centre of the bearing case must stay still. This is import or you'll end up with a load of grease everywhere. Obvious none of this is mentioned at canley's but it's vitally important.

As the special bolts for the disc to hub.

Very happy with all these mods, filled with lovely redline CV2 grease. Bastard to work the grease into these bearings cause the larger end of the tapper is sealed, took about 30mins to ensure they were filled to my satisfaction, the hubs were half filled.

Also need some hardened 7/16th washers for the caliper bolts to upright.

The idea of all this was a proper job on the outboard stuff, so best not that down spec it with crap fasteners and mild steel junk.

The only fluid you want to use is Castrol Response Super DOT4, this stuff is synthetic, very lubey and gentle on seals, also it gives a BONEHARD pedal.

I may just make some new lower wishbones now, rather than later, the crap weather means little use between now and spring, just some blating on nice cold dry days? Now my car is half Caterham half steel Triumph Chassis and Body I can use the word blat instead of drive?

Run out is under 0.001", I checked that.
Pads are retained by some pins, there is an end fitting that you close with some pliers then tap them in, anti rattle plate. Loosely stuck together atm.
Split pin is a "solid" fit needing to be tapped in.
No silly washers needed between caliper and upright etc. Discs are quite small 240mm.

Test brake line, tried a number of fittings before settling on a setup. The brake lines that came with the kit are no use, but the fixings are re-useable and useful!
Made up my brake lines. Same deal as a normal spit but different hardware.
No tension or movement of the ends, just within the double loop.

Happy with that, fooking should be, cause having just foolishly added up the cost of the bushes, rosejoints, wishbones, uprights, brakes and hubs, I could have brought another "reasonable" spitfire :(

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