Warm Isn't It

So warm I happily stayed in the garage till 2am.

Put in a 7hr wiring marathon.

Didn't really achieve anything bar neatness! Just fitted the new Tacho/Speedo, got funky with some convoluted split tubing in the cockpit area, will now be on all the wiring, on the entire car. Looks million times neater, also you can easily just slip extra or new wires into it...

More pedal fun

Almost done.
Thats as much room as possible I think.
Will get the pedal box and part of the bulkhead made and then some welding can commence, plenty queued up and lots of progress possible then.
Pedals are all good. I'll kink the foot of the clutch pedal back into line and make some adjustments later.
To retain the normal pedal pivot rubber covers I can graft on the pressed up area from the removed bulkhead to replicate the area as normal.

Once this is ready and welded the engine mounts will be done too, I can then remove the motor and build a bulkhead and get on with ignition triggering, finish the plumbing and wiring.

Leaving exhaust, prop, gearbox tunnel and plenty of small jobs.

Pedal mods

Started on remaking the pedal boxes.

Two flanges cut off, boxes butted together. The boxes will then be "boxed" up to the middle outer bolt holes...So to stiffen the whole thing. There will a range of other adaptions.

Will be seam welded together at the top. The pedals will need final bending adjustment once trial fitting has taken place.

You can see I have bent the clutch pedal, the brake pedal was already bent from previous fiddling.

I will make a new master cylinder bracket, 1 piece and add alot of strengthening, also some "tangs"or extensions on the bottom at the back, these tangs will have a nut welded on them I can then bolt the master cylinder bracket to the added box section on the lower pedal box, with bolts from through from the footwell, access impossible from above. These tangs will stop any bending or deflection in the backsurface of the bracket.

In the image above the right hand area where the master cylinder bracket and the pedal box meet and are bolted together will be removed, as there is not room for a horizontal area sticking out 15mm...This inner side of the pedal box and bracket will bolt to the new vertical section of bulkhead via 5 capitive nuts, 3 on box, 2 on bracket.

This new bulkhead section will have a brace that matches the current bulkhead brace which sits between each master cylinder, just now it will be sit on the inner side and run down about 105mm to make a new bulkhead area.

Pretty simple. This gives me 48mm between the trumpet and the new vertical area of bulkhead for filter which is just enough for what i have in mind...Minus 10mm for clearance and engine vibration allowance and 15mm for filter depth thats 23mm between the foam and the trumpet, you can basically run ITG filters on the trumpet ends as they are nearly totally free flowing. So thats fine.

Poached this off Bowler does Revs, Shiftlight, Speedo, Mileage, Trip, 0-60 timer, totally adjustable acceleration timer and it cooks your dinner too. So that solves MOT speedo thing and gives a totally accurate digital speedo..Sorted.

Check out my Trumpets :)

Check these suckers out :)

Never seen ones as big as this before!

Getting an air filter on will be fun. Atleast now if I make the bulkhead suitable for these + slim ITG panel filter I can run just about any trumpet / filter or throttle body combo in the future....

The cones and base flanges are not made together, they are two piece, so can possibly press the cones out of the flanges...Make a custom alloy ITG backplate to fit the filter, this plate would slide over the cones and be welded to them, about 1inch from the open end. Due to the increasing radius and such it would be a very neat and easy job.

I can then refit the flanges and get some weld tacks on them.

Then can get a shallow foam ITG filter which just covers the open ends of the trumpets with 1 inch air space behind the openings/ends. You can run these panel filters really close to the trumpet openings. You need only 20mm or so..The filter element is 15mm think...So I need another 40ish mm beyond the end of the trumpets is needed on the bulkhead mod.

Still pondering the clutch pedal options... :)

Extra work but worth it I think in the longer term.

Need to shave a few mm from the two centre trumpets as they will clash, so close is the manifold spacing.

BRROOM!

Making problems for yourself.

Found these going pretty cheap on ebay. They are for 45 carbs I am led to believe, 90mm long and WELL big. They are just like ones often seen on the most potent Ks running throttle bodies.

I really want to get them to fit :) This leads to some serious issues with the clutch pedal system. I am currently pondering my options, there is no rush to resolve anything yet.

I could possibly find just enough room if I remove the spacing between the master cylinder's , basically moving the clutch master cylinder over and then bending/extending the clutch pedal over to its normal location... butting the pedal systems right up together.

This would mean removing the bolting faces from the insides of each pedal housing and even more material, welding the pedal housings together to make a 1 piece unit. This unit will have the mastercylinders as close as possible on the bulkhead...I can weld the brackets together also.

I can also make both pedals work on the same pin with a small nylon spacer between them so meaning I can get them very close together.

I can remove the bulkhead brace panel from between the master cylinders and add it back on the clutch side, this panel can then form the top end plate for the bulkhead recess.

I can I think if I am cunning find another 3/4". Each pedal boxes bolt to the bulkhead by two bolts on the lower bulkhead section (vertical) and 6 bolts on the actual flat surface the master cylinder brackets bolt to.

The pedal boxes obviously have a protruding flange each side with 3 holes and captive nuts to bolt to the lot to bulkhead...By hacking the outer flange on the carb clutch side away, I can make my bulkhead 3/4" further outward towards the master cylinder...

I can weld some captive nuts to the vertical plane of the outer end of the pedal box, replacing the ones on the cut off flat section, the aim is to bolt the inner side of the pedal box to the vertical section, section I will build below the rehoused brace plate....So saving the thickness of the original mounting area...

I will need measure this lot up :)