Friday, October 07, 2005


Well, its been a while.

Here are a few photos of the car, I was told there are none on my blog! doh!

You can see bigger image here http://home.clara.net/ppowell/sptty.jpg

Recent mods...Well, engine out for a +60 rebuild. Running a 70HP (at best) 1300 Dolomite motor atm...still goes ok!

Fitted the 1500 kipping (billet?) stronger shafts but have yet to dial in the suspension, hopefully UPS are bringing me some front AVO shocks today. Will test the 330lb springs at a slightly higher ride height with them being height adjustable...also get the corners weighted.

Its got great exit traction using 20psi in the rears but there is too much roll during turn in and the front is too low at static and drops too much. My Gaz shocks are both too long and constantly on the bump stops and also non adjustable without spacer things...

This roll means the rear goes light on fast entry and there is profound lack of rear grip during initial turn in, to slow tight bends mainly, as the whole chassis's aspect is wrong, it drops forwards or dives hense it needs raising/stiffening at the nose, as the front dropping really takes all the weight off the back inside which causes wheelspin and oversteer during initial exit, apex, power on, and also it doesn't make effective use of the loaded outside rear tyre so it kind of squirrels in on a wave of changing camber.... although grip is still better than any spit I have had before.

I will ditch the 330 springs and use 480 next, as I don't think even when raised up the dive will be cured. Also the new rear spring is very stiff and I will make another set of drilled uprights with the holes yet further down...(which means flat banjo style brake line fittings on the rear brake cylinders or the spring fouls them! be warned, I had to remove half the spring eye thing off a swing spring to clear the lines with a hole 1inch further down) hopefully another 1/2 inch here in the uprights and raising the nose 1/2 should give the car a very slightly raised nose in respect to the rear, aiming for 15mm higher. So should pull flat when you brake hard with harder springs and make use of the first part of the suspension as suspension, not wallow. I would think then that bar geometry and camber - tracking there will be little more I can do on the solid shafts, and the car should work well...At this time is corners well once settled is supple, a bit too supple, has great exit grip from slow corners but its a bit fussy on the way in.

You can tie the car up by making the dampers very stiff, which makes it plainly obvious your spring rates are too low.

Got rod'end'ed radius arms also I need to weld up!

It was ok before I lightened the rearend up and fitted a new spring! The bonnet weight saving of 30kilos certainly helped regain some balance.

Oh and a side mission, exhaust is currently straight through a micron motorbike race can, its VERY loud...so I will visit Jetex.co.uk who sell loads of 2" pipe sections and boxes.

I worked out if you use 2x 245mm 2" 30degree bend sections you can extend the main 2" pipe which passes under the prop, so dumping the classis Triumph Twin pipe system and Y piece, you add the 2x 30 bends in opposite ways so thus kinking around the diff and ending on the left of right of centre..about 100mm short of the bootfloor section, use 100mm 2" section to extend and meet a bigger silencer than sits under the boot floor and pokes out the back a bit, rather like my current setup but with a much bigger backbox, I was going to use a BIG51 silencer which is the biggest and should shut the car up and also sticks down the same dist as the smaller versions as they are all 100mm tall...you can select and add on a tailpipe which sticks out 25cm, all very boy racer! Hopefully a boy racer extension to my manhood will stop the back of my car getting black from soot.

2 comments:

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