Saturday, November 04, 2006

K-Series engine is in place.

K-Series does indeed fit nicely. Minimal chopping of chassis needed. All cuts shown below. Was definately the way forward to wedge it back a few inches. Bonnet clearance good too about 1.5inches (due to my special bonnet!)

Few changes of initial planning regarding getting it running.

I want to be out to play in April really at Mallory trackday (with stock rear suspension?!) So, for the time being I will stick some 45 Dellortos on it, and weld a trigger wheel to the front pulley and use my megajolt system, mainly cause its all in place, just plug it in and there isn't a weeks work making a wiring loom etc also less cost.

I can switch to throttle bodies and such like in the future. I should be able to blag 2d advance map from Emerald basically just need the max figure used on a K. I spy a manifold for 45's on ebay atm...This should mean once the engine mounts are made it'll be straightforward.

Its in! Thats the angle they sit at.

Shall lower the bulkhead in this area to give me room for carbs/throttle bodies.
Alternator lines up on standard bracket and fits..Just needs a grooved pulley...Or more likely I will remove the crank pulley and machine a groove in it, for a standard belt...At the same time adding a trigger wheel to it...The K-Series flywheel ignition trigger system isn't good for megajolt cause its has 4 teeth missing its a 36-4 system not a 36-1 as per the ford kit....?

The gearstick location isn't that bad! Atleast for a midget like me! Maybe ok for leaving it there! Handbrake needs twisting towards the passenger side...

Plenty of options for engine mounts...I will probably make my own...Just have to remember a hole for the dipstick, thats covered by an alloy plate as seen at the base of the block.

To save removing too much material from the chassis rails I ground the box case a bit, both sides as there is a 1cm pointless protrusion here.

Chassis needs a nick removed here I can fettle a few mm from the bellhousing too, no problem...Atm the engine and box aren't quite level as its beached on this area, all the final areas needed adjustment as marked now...There's a good 7/8" lip on the chassis rail here which is more than enough once its ground down level with the main rail.

Chassis required the area where the old spitfire gearbox mount plate goes to be ground out, just as deep as a the bolt holes inorder for the box to clear and also enable easy removal of the box and engine as 1 item...You gotta plan these things!

Bulkhead will cut at the redline, this leaves the rearward plane left on the upright part by the wiring hole, leaving something to tack on a new panel too...I have already planned my bellhousing/gearbox cover system...

Plenty of room as my bonnet top is flat over this area. The crankshaft centreline will be about 2cm lower at the front that will the spitty engine, it will be laid totally flat when fitted. Bit lower C of G.

Carb will end up about here probably more towards the engine as this a conservative estimate of its location...Enough room for 25mm trumpets and an ITG panel filter.

Red area will be fettled too this is for the hydraulic clutch mech. Handbrake needs moving left.

Basically ya can't moan at that can you? I had the thing fitted in and basically its final location in less that 2hrs....ready for a rear box mount to be made and a set of front mounts...

Almost made to be! I didn't want any rail adjustment, rack moving and stupidity...Its a good idea to get the blueprints for engines before trying to fit them! I had the blueprints of the block for Zetec, K-series and Duratec and the K-Series. I worked out the others wouldn't fit with the box between the front and centre main crossmembers without sump changes and cross member adjustment, or locate in a rearward position, K-series goes in with 18mm to spare between the cross members with no real mods needed.

I am quite a happy bunny..I was feeling nervous as I hacked out sections of my car, but my diagrams where right and it all worked out good!

Next step is to pull the motor out again, make final adjustments to the rails then it will stay out and a rear box mount is be made, once thats made back in and ill rig up some front mounts...Then its onto bulkhead.

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