Silencer fun!

Alas, tis roughly mounted. Only took 20mins!

I used the stainless silencer which has a mounting bracket that can take 3 bolts/studs.

Spot the silencer! Doesn't stick out too far.

Have to make a little deflector for the tailpipe to keep it from cooking the edge of the tyre, no problemo.
Sits neatly inline with the sill only 12mm from it. Door clears by 2mm.
Its roughly fitted awaiting an extra stud, making it bolted in 3 places.

You might be able to make out two nuts between the bracket and silencer, these are just for trial fitting/spacing. These nuts will be replaced a cushion to damp vibration a bit (I am not bothered about vibration or whatever entering the tub, look at the car!!)...20mm x 17cm piece of high temp rubber, 2 existing studs and an extra stud will pass through the rubber and clamp the rubber between the silencer bracket and the sill so giving some basic flexibility...

Inside the sill will be a bent sheet of metal which the studs pass through to spread out the load of the 3 studs as otherwise it'll rip the sill/wing to pieces, there will be another small plate between the rubber and outside sill/wing section also. The studs will be welded to the silencer bracket so they don't rattle loose, inside the wing/sill will be 3 nylocks on the other end of the studs.

I will drill out the pop rivets holding the silencer bracket to the body of the silencer and replace them with allen key bolts and weld the nuts to the inside of the silencer tube to stop fatigue, the bracket already has a large plate inside the tube to spread load.

I don't factor in much vibration, movement on the silencer due to the very stiff engine mounts, also the main exhaust pipe will be mounted to the front outrigger so this will damp vibration also.

I will try and hunt down another silencer the same and make this silencer twice the length. I could then mount it like this at the front too..I could add a section of flexible exhaust pipe in too by the outrigger, to completely damp out any vibration to the silencer...Its all in hand. I see this as a lasting and ideal solution.

I loose 3/4" of ground clearance from the sill seam downwards, no biggy the old exhaust was lower in this area dragging on the ground, but will need to inspire confidence and leave the limits of my ground clearance and watch out for massive curbs at Nurburgring on left handers? :) I don't want to rip the thing out the sill and destroy my wing!

Silencer will bolt apart and repack, its 304 stainless throughout, should last a lifetime! I will make sure the pipe I get to make the rest of the system is also shiney stainless, will turn nice and blue :)

Could extend the tailpipe slighly to get the gases away from the wheel but a simply alloy section will do the job, I was forced into locating it in this place due to the fact my stick like arms can actually reach right down and touch the sill / floorpan seam from the holes inside the cockpit by the hood frame mounts! I best not put on any weight. I can use a spanner in there also...

I will knock up the remaining final pieces tomorrow and call this job done, sweet. I couldn't start hacking 5mm thick steel to bits at midnight!

Don't really feel any different towards the car nows its well on the road to being a mungrel its just a car to me, its never been a Triumph thing, its just been easy to work on and modify...I couldn't care less about walking through a line of standard Triumphs and marvelling at the spangly chrome etc, rather watch paint dry, sorry but its true ! .... I am sure the purists won't like it, but the pleasure of a car for me is the engineering and how it responds on the road!

Actually there is ZERO reason why I couldn't in refit a 1300 in couple of days hard labour, I haven't done any mods that aren't backward compatible...Bar the removing the gearbox mount plate holes, even then I can just wedge the 1300 4.5inches back, problem solved.