Paint - Suspension

Car primed and waiting top coat.

Pressed in the bearing today, heated the uprights to 90C and they went in easy before it cooled.

Uprights need some dremel action on the back, about 1mm to clear the CV boot.


Above shows the wishbone bracket with many holes...this is about where it will all sit at static, the chassis is the same height as mine is normally and the upright chocked up where it sits with a 155/80/13 wheel i had fitted.

Here the main part of the driveshaft is midly inclined as it would be on the swing axle, of course, cause to get negative camber the swing shafts ends have to be higher than the inner end !! level you have no camber...

As its setup here, there is more static camber for a given ride height than the swing axle. As you can see. We have a dose of static neg.

As it bumps up further 1.5" from static with the wishbone in this inner location - as in a cornering / roll situation -there is a very small increase in camber over bumping on this hole then it tails off and levels out, doesnt grown anything after an 1inchover the first 1.5" bumping and not alot over the first 1.5", it stays quite stable, and doesnt grown anything much throughout its entire bump cycle... This one requires more static negative plumbed in I think, as it doesnt grow much....what you put in it, is what it stays at, bar a little neg addition.

If I move it up one hole and keep the wishbone the same length there is more positive at full droop, out of cycle- due to increased inclination and shortening of the wishbone on its movement arch, this moves about plunge wise quite aggressively at the bottom when the wishbones becomes MUCH shorter the further you droop.

By the time we reach static it obviously has less camber than the lower hole setting as the wishbone is shorter as its more inclined, so has lost length, but its waiting to grow later and give its best later, it gives its best, later, in the bump cycle it, the curve goes flat later than the lower hole, so the bump curve follows directly...

The driveshaft is flat with no articulation at static unlike the picture and lower hole setting, this means I will have the same camber at static as with the swing axles...But this hole makes it grow quite a bit of negative over the next 1.5" as the wishbone extends towards flat later, suiting lowered cars more, your recycling the suspension to work in a lower position (bump and useable suspension zone needs tuning from stock if you lower it alot your working outside its designed position, the pickups are all placed for stock ride height)....

This setting virtually matches the swing axles in the working area but without all the other mess at the extremes, so its gaining good camber, but down by 1/3rd possibly over the swing axles...the swing axles camber change becomes too negative over its main bump cycle, mostly during the last 1/3rd of its useable zone -if you could bump it down over 1.5-2" and keep the body flat, you have massive camber on swing axles.


This 2nd from top hole makes a setup a bit less aggressive than swing axles during the first 1.5" of bump, then the curve gains a bit more compared to the lower hole over the next 1", over that inch the first half has a small camber increase then a flat curve,

So put very basically lowering from the stock loaction puts the bottom wish to flat to early, if you move the inner pickup upwards by half the distance you lowered the car, you recycle the suspension somewhat delaying its best activity to match your new ride height.

....It makes good camber if thats needed during bump and roll but doesnt give the extremes of the swing axle...

The bearing is pressed into the upright as much into the main body as possible. I have about 2mm of plunge CV movement left at some silly droop level - before it bottoms out on the lower hole.

I have 0mm left on the upper hole but the shaft still rotates smoothly...But by reducing the droop slightly and removing and 3/4" of total droop jacked up, useless droop, I have 2mm to play with and the joint turns just fine....I wanted to cut out excessive droop anyway for the Ring saves wobbly light moment landings....

The plunge basically just goes mad at the droop extremity, the move you move the inner link point upwards the more it plunges towards the diff, basic stuff, at static there is 7-8mm of CV movement left before bottoming out on both settings using same wishbone length ...I could push the bearing further in but I am only interested in it being as far back in the upright as possible! 2mm is 2mm and that 2mm is in a zone rarely used, thats perfectly ok to me?!

I'd didnt get round to measuring the hub to drum spacer required here with my bearing in its current location, but long wheel nuts with extra flange to location both spacer and drum and wheel - concentrically, are no problem.



It goes round and round woooo!