Spent a couple of hours this evening snake charming.
I finally got my Apollo tank plumbing designed.
No real way to make it superneat, but this will do. Also a bonus is I only have to buy 1 goodridge connector! It also enables me to keep the line that will be initually used before the Apollo and Laminova are fitted, keep it in the boot etc on long drives incase anything fails, I can stick it back to remote filter only.
Plenty of clearance on the pipes, the apollo tank feed from the oil block goes through the fan belt, about 2" clearance either side.
Thats about it. The two pipes going under the carbs go to the Laminova and back to the filter, then back to the engine. Plenty of pipework!
The line out the top of the apollo tank should clear the bonnet with a 90 fitting on it, by about 1/2" minimum from some rough measuring. The water swirl pot will have its pipe outlet on the top hacked off and a -4 JIC alloy adaptor added, this will run braided -4 line back to the header tank. All lines for sidesystems of the water will be made from -4 or -6 hoses to meter them to do what I want them to do, restrict some, make others work more etc.
I still need to make a water rail over the exhaust manifold. Reasonably pleased with the plumbing, this was just to get the apollo in a good location and to ensure I can use all my cheap connectors! Also to dummy up and weld a base mount to the chassis and then get mounting plate welded to the base of the apollo! Lots of work. All the lines need making these are just cobbled up from bits of old pipe etc! I still need to weld in a hump over the gearknob, then I think I can pull the motor and paint the chassis!
The jack bar is there to replicate the strut brace! Best to not forget things you plan to make.
These two connectors will go on the laminova...Its pretty small so if flat connections front and rear, one pipe comes out straight, the other can do a 180 and meet the other pipe...
I also ordered some wire and couple of relays. I intend to add another fuse box behind the dash, 6 fuses. I will feed the box from 50amp relay thats a direct battery feed. The relay will only trigger feed to the fusebox when the ignition is on. I will just add a few longer wires and take the strain off the ignition switch switch. The wipers, heater, MJL, Lamdba probe, SPA Tacho will be fused from this, probably using 4 fuses, so leaving two extra ignition feeds ready for any future additions.
Its a small job and puts my mind at rest that the wiring is then complete and will not need any future fiddling and I have some extra capacity for ignition switched things, all the other circuits have independant fuses anyway, the fan, EWP and fuel pump, lights, ignition switch, horn. Also I will add another relay that acts as a contact switch for the wipers from the new steering wheel button...Basically the wheel switch will act as an earth switch for the relay, so not causing any issues of safety with wiring etc I can use some old coiled headphone wire wrapped around the wheel boss.
If I was really fussy I know I could do the wiring better next time and would tear it all out and start again but thats a bit obsessive!
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