Fuel Tank Level Sender mod

Ok so the RaceTech gauge didn't like my Triumph Sender, well it worked but was stuck @ 1/8th in the tank at full droop and not making max full @ full extension...I did try messing with it, it then seemed to conk out...

Lucky for me I got a big box of old Rover Parts. In the box happened to be two sender units. Quick test showed both worked perfectly, holding empty and full at max and min movement.

The one on the left is suitable for the tank...I gently tweaked the rod to the float so it sat a little lower in the tank. So now it sits about 1/2inch off the bottom of the tank on empty and 1/2inch from the top on full. Perfect! Gives me a 3/4 of a gallon reserve on empty.

Same shape, diameter, thickness, did have to just nip off a little block of plastic from the back to clear the locating tabs on the tank.
Should seal perfectly well it all went together as normal.
Gauge off.
Gauge on @ empty.
These gauges are great, the triumph shite takes about 1minute to go from max to min etc. These are instant...Maybe even so good I'd not bother using a capillary on the water temp had I known how far electric gauges had moved on...

Looks like another improvement! Also the gauge and sender at not effected by external voltage changes to anything like the degree of the old ones...about 10th as much, check that too.

Sender is a Metro/Maestro or Montego...Not sure...either way it was a free mod and an improvement! I was never happy with my fuel gauge anyway, it seemed to fluctuate.

Waffle

Been tied up on other stuff.

However tomorrow my dash should be complete with all gauges working, all illuminated and all switchwork sorted. Which will be nice. That means the wiring is done. Dash is all fully bolted in.

Steering column bracing went well, it don't move at all.

Been hassled with annoying part suppliers who can't do anything and slowed down by stupid products with no industry standard. Like I wanted to add covers over my switch studs sticking out the dash, neater. Sadly seems noone has noticed the covers have an M12 0.75mm thread and 90% of the switches on the market, all but grayston ones have an M12 x1mm thread.

I go to maplins cause I see on the website they sell covers and switches...Guess what...All the switches are course thread and the covers are fine, what f'ing use is that? I point this out to them...

Anyways I finally found some grayston on/off/on switches and should be good to go with a fine thread, if not I may end up breaking something or spitting bile, already wasted £10 on some other brand..Its these little details that take the piss out of you.

I'll take some piccies once my gauges finally arrive.

Popped to Merlins the otherday, fun to see this Turbo Bike engined Westfield slaughtering everything at a trackday (Merlins is at CastleCombe)...

Dashing Dash

Me dash is done. Took me ages to cover it. I balsed up the first covering and got a few small lumpy areas, so ripped it off, took ages to deglue the surface again! Pain. Anyways the second = perfection, not a lump, or ripple anywhere! You have to look at it all the time? Its gotta be right!Ordered some Racetech gauges. A 7ft capillary water temp gauge, a -3 version of the oil pressure gauge 0-100psi (saves buying a -3 hose to BSP adaptor from Merlin), a new fuel level gauge (hoping this works with the stock sender, should do), an electric oil temp gauge 0-150deg and sender.
Flat as a pancake. Thats not just a covering man, thats taking it to perfection and beyond...

This is what I see, all the important dials and lights.
Made some carpet templates for the flat sections that will go in the floorpans.

Need to nail this gearbox tunnel and hump, can then paint the floor, that should be the cabin complete.

Prolly stick some furry edge covering on the lip of the dash.

Maybe some shiney shit through the post will aid with the motivation atm. The end is close, good the clocks have gone back, its a good time to stop hiberating.

Useful Company

Had no idea these guys were right by me.

Looks my alloy welding issues maybe solved forever.

Been troubling about my water rail for the outlet side, ideally I need it one piece in alloy, but there are some complex bends, outside the radius of the normal 4.5" mandrel bending radius, need tighter ones. Looks like these guys are ideal! I need to bead the one end, get a flange on the other, a mount to go on the top alternator bracket and heater pipe outlet added and also a boss for the temp sender. So its complex item.

http://www.conceptracing.co.uk/gallery/index.shtml

http://www.conceptracing.co.uk/

Check out that Maserati 250F tank!

Guess over and have a chat, they can handle all my alloy stuff. Looking at the reasonable prices of their tanks and stuff, looks like reasonable cost too.

Might have to add them to my list of prospective places to go and try and blag a job at sometime...Need my "CV" finished first.

Frankenstiens Monster

Engine back in, not for the last time either....I thought it might be, but it won't :)
Now I can weld the header tank to the strut brace...Seems silly not to. Both need to be removed to get the engine out, so why not make them 1 unit!
Wiring is now just about done, front light connections are sorted with two 6 way waterproof connectors.

Final trial fitting to nail all these alloy bits.

Clutch is plumbed and tested, working fine. Short pedal, heavy, like it. 0.750" M/C. The girling cap fits the wilwood M/C's...Bit of an originality joke eh...

Purposeful spaghetti?

Well measuring was good, cause the clutch line clears the bulkhead by 12mm.

What have I done, this project is sapping my power. Suppose it'll be done soon enough, still so much stuff to make, some of which means other people getting involved, which is usually a reciepe for depression and disappointment.

I shall go pick up some covering for the dash later, I could use some gauges as well, a bit of retail therapy might do some good.

Only 999,567 loose ends to tie up now.