On the way!

Ordered a TH7, might be here tomorrow.

Still hunting for ARP flywheel bolts, couldn't find any today....Anyone know anywhere?!

Just need to pop to Worcester and pickup some more decent sump and timing gaskets and stick all back together. Found a Coopers copper/asbestos/steel head gasket I am gonna test, it cost me £5 so?! Never used one it'll be interesting to see. Been told to stick some wellseal on it, not a fan of using anything on the head cause it makes getting it off a pain and cleaning up the surfaces for gasket changes means mess in the engine but still...Nothing ventured...Being as its all metal and asbestos should be durable? Autograssers like em. Needed cleaning up a bit its ancient but looks ok.

Whipped all the main caps off and had a look, good to see the discolouration made by 40year old wax was still on the surfaces and they looked as they went in. Everything looks A Ok.

Rethink

Th5 to mild, TH7 being ordered tomorrow. Should give a massive top end power increase, the TH5 was good in the middle but poor over 6250, just strained feeling. Hopefully back together half a day after a cam arrives! If I had the bits I'd have done it all tonite.

Will uprate and increase the size of the flywheel bolts too!

Whipped the head off and nice to check the insides out...Will go and tidy up shortly and put it to one side for now! Hopefully I can get a cam quickly...I'll not bother to inspect anything on the crank....

I knew the TH5 was gonna suck, the FR89 was a beast of a cam compared....If you have a decent road spec 1300 small crank on twin Webers.Dellortos forget the TH5, go for a FR89 -TH6 or Race 83 TT. Th7 if you want some big wattage...

More expense but thats tuning for you.

Ok, not so bad.

Maybe shouldn't jump to conclusions - Had all the signs of my previous crank snapping, load noise, banging and knocking, slack when you pull the alternator belt combined with rattle. Luckily the flywheel came off instead. Anyways I am gonna change cams so it ain't all bad! I'll put it oneside for now and order some bits. Relieved...Crank ok, I'll try and destroy that on a new cam!

54minute engine removal.

Its out started at 5.30....tis now 18.31. I will strip it in a moment (literally)

5.40pm
5.55pm
6.15pm
6.25pm

I built it simple for a reason.

Could do without this hassle, don't push your crank past 0.030" regrind.

Maybe was silly to re-use the crank it had been on 0.010+ 20+ 30+ and had over 60000miles of abuse in my hands and lead a life before that. Can only put it down to the excessive gring on the big ends....1mm undersize...Shame it had been a good friend. TH5 is a too mild for my engine anyway so maybe its a good thing.

Top end was fuelled ok but weak in performance, maybe carb chokes, but my fast road 89 cam made more power than this one and rev'ed clean to 7500 on small chokes so I blame the cam...

I have 1.75 roller rockers for sale £125, and a barely used TH5 with followers £100. TH5 ideal for 1500 engine or stock 1300. 1.75 rockers ideal for stock camshaft, nice power hikes all over.

Gonna go crazy on the cam this time and find an unground crank!

Brooom - BANG

Hmmm minor set back, just snapped the crank like Josh, was running well till then. Maybe 0.040" under on the bearings made it a bit weak...off to worcester to find a new crank.

Further Fiddles with engine

Got to the point I was happy to do 7K WOt runs. Wasted an evening doing 1st and 2nd gear jet tests switching the motor off as soon as 7K was reached in 2nd then plug checking and ended up back where I started! doh.

Tried various main jet combos and the best seemed to be 120main-7tube-150 corrector, but not perfect...I have ordered some more jets and will continue when they arrive.

Tested main jets 112-115-118-120-130 on 5 and 7 emulsion tubes, tested 130-150-170 correctors against some of the main combos. I think I need 122 or 125 maybe 127 mains, so thats what I ordered plus some 140 and 160 correctors... Setup the carbs with longer progression for a test using the 5 tube to delay the main a bit...actually worked ok, punch was good in the mid range.

I ended up on 48idle and a 7850.3 holder in the end, the engine seemed to be changing, I am still stuggling with it, also between a quick afternoon and evening test the atmospherics changed and threw me, it was very damp in the afternoon and richer a result.

To be 100% honest I am not happy with the cam's power at 6250+ but I leave my final verdict till I can be sure I am not lacking on the jets..Getting there.

As such I prepared the roller rockers for fitment today, they bashed the rocker box, so I had grind half the screwdriver slot from the adjuster screws, perfect now.

Very odd findings running at idle in the garage n the 1.75 rockers,...The old rockers wouldn't give an idle till the engine was at 40C from cold and needed to be kept alive on the pedal (no chokes) on what was a good jet setting hot.

Now with the rockers the engine starts and will run and idle sweetly cold from the first turn of the key @ 700rpm without any help, thats a new thing to me....I rev'ed it up a bit after it warmed up and sounds sweet as sweet can be!! It picks up much better than the normal rockers, give it throttle it revs up much easier with less throttle...Sounds lovely! Dunno how they run on the road as I didnt want to get into an obsessive jet chasing session today I had to have a massive tidy up in the garage and do some real work! Anyway marked change, big change in something...really nice sounds!

Promising....Dunno why that would be but it certainly has effected something big time.

I will have a fiddle tomorrow night if its dry...

Basically my only dissapointment with the cam is it does feel that potent in the top, my engine has potential for big numbers at the high end...If the rockers give me the predicted results i.e power increase all the way to 7500 instead of power increase to 6250 then flat power - It'll be exactly what I want, however if they don't change the character as the software dyno says - I will be forced to change cams.

Major Breakthrough! Schumi to the back of the grid?!

Don't care how you read Schumachers "mistake" thats just complex boll****. A good race ruined, so much for my Sunday fun, who wants to watch the spaniard walk another challengeless race, goddamned stewards!!! I am furious!!

Well my engine is certainly different to the old one!

The old one needed a 50idle jet to get a crisp light throttle cruise to 3750rpm. It needed a 112main on a 7 tube with 150 corrector. I assumed the new engine would need atleast 50idle and maybe more to make up for its extra cc and compression, but the opposite is in effect. After fixing the float issue I left the garage this morning on a cold engine and it ran really well on the 50, then once temp rose to 70C it ran like a dog...

Which I thought most odd. So I changed to a 48idle which was lean on the old motor, now its super dooper at cruise and town work is clean but not perfect. I think it needs 47 now but I have none! Screw useless Webers, Dellortos are the NUTS! 0.01mm jetting changes DO make a difference, a big one, on a Weber a 5 point change at time is utterly useless.

Reason for this can only be put down the engine having much more draw on the venturi tube, increased signal strength= the main jet is now on earlier and overlap is less in length so the smaller idle is needed, idle is less dependant now. This was a major breakthrough and taught me not to go on what the old one wanted.

I must admit to being completely lost yesterday.

Maybe the carbs have different sized progression holes? I can't be sure.

This cleaned up the fluffing and lumpness and plugs became sootless on the edges as a result the spark is cleaner and more constant, the engine came alive.

I stayed on the 150 corrector as after testing 170 is was evident that it went lean and overlap was poor, plugs bit white and hot to the hand. The engine started to run much stronger at this point when going back to 150, I then felt confident to make some short WOT power runs and advance the ignition up to the max, to the point of mild momentary knock then back 1.5degrees...there goes long run in period, doesn't need it, its ready for action and loosened right up!

Here was a major breakthrough, the engine runs like terribly and misses and runs rough with no power without the advance being up at 13-13.5 BDTC static and the right jet feels awful- 11 deg dissy weights- 35-35.5 total, back it off to 10-11BTDC 32-33 total its awful in the lower end and mid range.

The engine is much more advance sensitive than the last one for some reason, not enough its awful...I hadnt been running enough advance the last two days due to concerns with the rough running, which turned out to be fuelling rather than timing regardless of float issue.

After a few more 1st and 2nd gear WOT runs to 6000rpm I was confident enough in the timing to make some conclusions from various signs that it was right and proceeded to add more fuel as I was confident it would take it...On the retarded ignition the other night 120 was over rich but now it can handle it fine.

On the 112 there was not good power WOT and at cruise- the engine wasn't "leading" itself but needing throttle to drive it at cruise. My old engine drove itself and punched you when you decked the throttle, thats been missing completely till now.

So out with the 115mains and there was immediate increase in power and cruise was good but still a little retarded, the engine made a familar grunting/gurgle noise during a short WOT run in 1st and 2nd, lean, plugs told me the same story, lean.

So I switched 120main the noise was gone and suddenly a huge ammount of power was found!!!!

The cruise and low TP performance came into the zone I remember and when you deck the throttle there was a big increase WOT power in higher gears and the engine leads itself alone nicely in the low TP cruise, effortless no pedal use really to follow traffic...On the old engine for road work the only time you used to open it up was when you wanted to arrive at the next corner fast or overtake, that feeling came back, big torque feeling at low TP...Effortless cruising.

I think possible it could take a bigger jet still maybe 125. This is cause of the compression it needs more fuel, according to Josh B, and he's right...Also cause the idle is so small the engine is using the mains over a bigger rpm range, so when I have full control over it, it should be highly active and punch like tyson. The extra CR ratio shoudl give me the powerback that is lost from the FR89 cam and more torque etc.

Its not perfect yet I am not gonna get carried away, there's work to do, but I have found a solid base now - 90% as good as the old one and its got some good poke that production car quality is coming to me! Mechanically ts super smooth in the WOT delivery in lower gears and pins you in the seat, thats without even using 7000rpm +, the old one was just really getting into the big numbers at 6K, so its all good!.

I had it on some big oversteer in 2nd a few times exiting corners and it just span up the rear tyres thats without commited entry just booting it out...Good signs!

The pumps will be hardly needed like the old engine as the mains are super active and on early - I think they are giving too much fuel over too much time atm, I will perfect the general pickup and power first then go to 35pumps from 33 for less duration and reduce the delivery quanity till it dives a bit then go back up...Games for another day.

Noted the fuel economy was crap before, its coming back now...Old motor was 35+mpg on a motorway...10-15MPG at full charge 8-)

I'm a happy bunny its delivering goods and found WADS of power today- I have solid and working jet base which is very different to the old one...this is pleasing.

Took me 5hrs today, I think did atleast 30 stops, timing and jet tests and burnt £25 of super! If you left the rolling road, you'd probably be happy with it, I am, but I am a perfectionist and there's still much work to do. I aim for levels of clairty on the Dell'ortos that others don't even know exist, no comphremises -as good as fuel injection.

It still hasn't used a drop of oil on the dipstick in 350miles or so, and that was running in!!! meant to use a bit arent they! by now the old engine would have used/dumped 1/3rd of a pint!!! there is no splatters or back mess on the rear valance , the old motor added most of its oil onto the back!

Its becoming a joy!

Once I get it completely sorted I will go and see how much power its got on the rolling road and add the 1.75 roller rockers and set up the jetting with a sun machine, as its all high end its dangerous and I don't want cause the engine any harm, so I'll resort to using a machine and electronics not my eyes, ears and hands, software dyno says 10-11HP over 6000rpm peaking at 7500 on those, but we will see!...

My whole aim was use the TH5 for torque and extend its powerband and potentcy with the rockers...We will see...The Fast Road 89 from the last engine should give 5 BHP more than the TH5 on equal CR - only over 6000 but less torque and mid range, by about 5hp-5lbs of torque...So I hope for the best of both worlds...When I added the roller rockers to the stock 1300 big crank (18-58 cam lol) it gave more power in the middle I think, so I might find a raise here too? There's hope...

Diff needs daily oil filling? so I will drop the backend off soon, the pass side output flange seal has gone...the diff is a rattler anyway.

I think I will defintely switch to synthetic oil shortly after another 200miles, also the oil is VERY clean still, I'll cut the filter open tomorrow and have looky inside, change it for a new one. Oil pressure figures haven't really changed at all. The engine is very much looser now.

Re-torqued the head to 60lbs tonight and checked the the tappet gaps were all still even, good to see if anything has gone bad etc. With new tappets, pushrods and rocker arms you NEED to redo the tappets alteast 2times at 30minutes running time and 250miles odd - as they run in and the gap will change on various cylinders by 1-2-3 thou or so ....If there's any big variation like 10thou you have cam and follower troubles, best adjust your start up proceedure!

HAPPY BUNNY!! Got to bed at 4am yesterday and up and 8.30am its now 2.30am....bit shagged!

ASBO!!

I have been threated with an asbo for running my car at idle by a neighbour in some new houses over the fence lol...cheeky git from London who moves here and buys up our/locals houses with his retirement delusion of a quiet country life, he wont be coming round again, i kindly pointed out that area used to be a quiet orchard and our lives have been messed up here by it - I was woken up by builders for 12months- everyday, he is welcome to get the council round and to out a meter in his house for noise, being as i can't even hear my car or feel it in my bedroom he is a whining bastard! so we fell out 8-)

I can't stand city folk who move to the country, they add NOTHING to the economy and bring a selfish and annoying attitude, ruining rural life...I managed not to swear at him, I am gonna run my car more later to piss him off.

I'll run the bench grinder more often and angle grind some stuff up too.

F1 practice war!

There's a war going on!! Schumi and Alonso trading P1-P2, best they leave some new tyres for the rest of the weekend!

Alonso just stuck in a purple first sector on his 3rd lap....doesn't bode well.

Sump baffle + F1

Works well, the picture was pre-pop-riveted. Stamp the brakes, no surge at all.

F1 qually today looks tight, watching times for practice on Formula1.com ...Hard to call the tyres, both Bridgestone and Michelin look strong over 3-4laps on a new set - Hopefully Alonso will crash soon or have a DNF, horrible spanish git needs Schumacher to take him down a peg or two, he walked to a challengeless title last year, he doesn't deserve such a high level of arrogance yet, he best make the best of this year cause he will be nowhere in the Mclaren next year, that team is not great atm, no renault package thats for sure, too conservative. Love Alonso's arm waving and constant denials about everything, he's a prat.

Just as I type Schumacher goes 1.8seconds faster than anyone!!! There is hope yet!! Mclaren look quite racey this weekend.

Opps

Inconsistancy, Imbalance in carb fuelling -I was lacking some go and felt the engine was fighting itself + 1-2 plugs bit less coloured than 3-4 - problem has been found.

1.30am 8-(

I double checked my float levels when I fitted the carbs, both were 26mm as per normal so I didnt question this, however now 1-2 cylinder carb was 2.5mm down on the back one....So problem is found, basically 1 cylinder was a touch lean, not really lean but retarded and vacuum dependant - cylinder two marginal - main jets in these cylinders would have been working ok once they got running, but more retarded that 3-4, possiblt touch leaner....needing more vacuum to operate, good job I have been pottering about...

I hope for perfect clarity tomorrow.

Lesson is, triple check everything then check it again after running. As a carb "expert" I am pretty disgusted with myself.

The levels can be low and the carbs still work fine, just they need a richer setting for optimum pckup and aren't as responsive, so basically both carbs were talking a different language, here is why I felt today that the engine was a bit crap, cause it was fighting itself...Also looking at the idle screws they tell a story, 1-2 out more than 3-4....

No harm done cause once vacuum is up around 2000rpm the suction will pull fuel from the lower ducts regardless of float level till it falls so much the engine won't run and misses....being as I had no spitbacks and misses in the mid range etc there was no dangerous lean condition on 1 carb, no harm done, still annoying, dangerous lean condition would mean no power all at all and spitbacks galour...so just mild lean-ness and retarded jet action...

It's now plainly obvious why when pulling away from a stop the engine hesitated slightly before taking off, due to 1-2 cylinders needing to build vacuum before the fuel came on properly, same on the mains, my throttle response felt poor hense my futile timing fiddling.

It all adds up, tomorrow should be a big step forward and also I'd expect a fair power gain with both carbs talking to each other and big torque raise, the power I felt was missing somehow! I like simple problems!

Also the fuel level in the rear carb was 1.5mm too low...I'm baffled by this, I robbed some brand new OE spec viton 150 valves some new carbs I have.

Before I seemed to like the earlier type floats -hard plastic- but I'm on .3 -7grams this time. Experience tells me the vitons like more pressure as they seal for longer due to their soft sealing tips - they then release more fuel later on low pressure, so compared to the metal valves they can make the fuel level more choppy, I always run 2.5psi on metal and 3.5psi on viton to help them blow off earlier and keep a more constant fuel level. The metals are pants imo they wear fast hate high pressure with a light float, where as the Viton tipped ones last a decade or more...I have seen unrebuilt 45's that are 27years old on original valves that you could re-use, viton is a dogs nads!

I'll have to retune the damned idles again now!! GRRR.

Good job I found that now before, I was gonna pull the whole damned rig to pieces tomorrow anyway cause something was out of wack, but its done now! No harm done. Rain forcasted from 8am....poop.

What I still find odd is the car was ok first time I drove it, maybe the valves tips expanded or softened and gave a better seal with some use and fuel on them, they are 20+years old even as new old stock items??? It seems to have gotten worse with time, baffled I am!! Thats the conclusion I can draw cause I spent a good hr checking the levels and emptying the bowls-refilling and testing when I fitted them...

Frustrating fiddling

The BPR7ES solved my roughness and now have nice biscuit plugs and more constant engine feel.

I spent two hours trying to find the perfect timing but cannot get a feel for whats bang on atm cause other things aren't right, I'm torn over a few degrees atm. Wasted time there, need some G-Meters like Josh or something I had the perfect figure stamped on my steel pulley but thats now in a scrap pile!! half the reason I was lost was cause the carbs aren't bang on a bit too much advance will quash the effects and make it run smoother, so I noticed before - so I can't be sure where I am is right cause of the carbs!!

I will be off to rent this rolling road next week, or atleast stick it on one just up the road and a quick squirt, I just can't be arsed pissing around, then I can get on with jetting it up and alike.

I just can't "feel" the right area atm and I can't boot it hard yet to see, maybe a bit premature worrying about it! I just wanted to get the low end running back to where the old engine was but infact it just got worse all day! All part of the game, the old engine ran so well it's not a day job to get it all back to that level I think I spent 2months fiddling with it everywhere I went!!

So somehow I screwed up my carb balance, which I fought with for a while, till I realised, not sure my meter is working right as I checked it and adjusted it, but it ended up out of wack, so I retuned the idles to get the idle quality back so that pissed up light throttle clarity and made it fluffy which I could have been blaming on the timing!!

Hard game this tool-less tuning trying to find perfection 8-)

So today was a complete waste of time - These tube and rod meters need to be 100% level to get a decent reading...I might buy 10metres of vacuum tube and bolt the sucker to the wall after spirit levelling it! So I wasted a while on that. Took me an hour to get it back to what I think is good at idle but then it was 11pm and annoying thats ends my testing for today! If I had my way i'd still be outhere! - Hopefully tomorrow will yield results as the carbs are balanced to perfection again -and post should bring me some more jets.

Engine has loosened up alot now its got 250miles on it, given a few boots to 5K feels ok, hard pull in 2nd- but being a perfectionist it feels a bit crap really- the old one was that good I cannot be expected to find that type of running in 2days, regret selling those carbs to Fewster now as these need pumps tailoring etc etc! Tiring. Needs perfect timing first and then some jet tests, but I can't do the timing properly till I can give all the revs.

Run £35 of Super unleaded through it in the last 2 days.

1/3 of the rad now sheilded and it runs at 73-75C in open road, which is about what I want for good power...with obvious running benefits, 65C is too cold.

I was on the verge of breaking something earlier, so I resorted to a scotch instead, two drinks in one week, that more than 3years worth! Ack.

Be interesting to see how the TH5 compares to the FR89, doesn't seem to be much difference low down or torque wise...

So overall a highly annoying and fruitless evening, I hope tomorrow is dry and I can pull back some results with the lessons of today fully ingested and mulled over.

So far its used NO oil at all not a drop.

Oh and my diff is pissing oil out it wasn't doing that before, why now its just been sat quiet and run gently for two days? Is there no end to it!!!! Diff's are the bane of my life!!! I haven't even bothered to look where its coming from - Time to buy a proper new one with a new CW and Pinion. So looks like I'll have to keep refilling it for my testing...Good time to install a 1inch spacer under the diff inplace of my 1/2". GRRR

I hate wasted time.

Oil pressure! Other findings.

Currently after 1hr of running and oil warmed up the motor knocks out 23-25psi oil pressure at idle, and 55psi @ 2750, 60psi @ 3000 and 65psi from there up, thats with no cooler, I'd expect a raise with one fitted. I stabbed the brakes a few times and my baffles appear to be working ok. I expect to loose some pressure after gunning but the oil in there atm is cheap shit so it'll probably make no difference.

Still no leaks - bar wet heads on the two bolts that go into the alloy bridge under the front main bearing cap...need to pull them out and throw some sealer on them....No drips, yet!

No teething issues really - bar the running issues -the clutch master cylinder cap needs replacing and it dribbled a litle fluid onto my bulkhead but luckily it didnt mark it, much!! grrr. Needed to do up the brake line off the master cylinder a bit as this had a tiny weap too.

Need to fit a roof as my doors rely on it for stability as I cut the inner skin out they are floppy, they wobble and shake without a hood! However the standard version with inner skins are rock solid !

Running in - Dialling in, teething issues and general fiddling.

Did about 150miles today, with a windscreen frame and gearbox tunnel, so tuning begins....It runs WELL don't me wrong, however- Kind of frustrating .... cause I had some issues I couldn't dial out over the longer term driving... The engine runs nicely and works but a bit rough and inconsistant, midly overadvanced for first 10miles by about 1-2degrees, quickly fixed on 11 deg for now...33 total, safe for running in!

I have awesome compression, low blow by and increased compression ratio, this roughness is down to number of issues I think. I tested various jets to be sure it wasn't a fuel issue and what should work didnt and anything else was rich- found the roughness persisted on all jets tested. I ended up back on a 50idle and 112 mains - which are the the "ones". I think, maybe 115main would be best but the 3 point change wouldn't be enough to give this roughness in certain areas and times..

I tried to cure it with a 52idle but this is too rich and a touch lumpy and plugs midly fouled, there was bog from 1250rpm-2000 on 52 idle so its not that!! as it tells me its too rich! 50 is good sometimes but not always there's something odd going on, related to heat, traffic and how the engine has been used before.

I went back to 50 and its improved but there's a bizarre inconsistancy issue, which gets worse on open road the more load you put the engine under -and the engine runs well just after some town work when cylinder temps are low...As I cannot use a 52 idle without lumpyness 50 must be right as before, and I am fighting an issue unrelated to the carbs!! Having been round the houses on the jets I have concluded that the last engine was on the cusp of the BPR6ES and BPR7Es, winter the 6 was best and summer the 7...

Seems now it needs a 7 always, but it was 10.30pm when I concluded this and my neighbours might get annoyed with further testing! The 50idle is right I think yet the engine doesnt run 100% all the time only some of the time. I see from the plugs they are a bit white on the tips yet the metal outside is blackened a bit, which tells me that the mix is about where I want it with regards to what worked in the last engine, bit black on the metal bit, brown on the middle, tuned engine always wants a little more than stoimetric fuel ratio...

The plug tip won't colour up on the correct jet and richer jets just go rich and the engine goes rich rough!!.. So I switched to 7's after coming to the conclusion that the 6 is overheating and ending up white being no1 was whiter than 2-3-4 and 2-3-4 were gradually graded in colour, I think they are too hot and causing a roughness -through effecting the fuel mixture when they overheat= hot =burning off some fuel mixture, misfire, fluff and effecting the "ideal" jets character...I felt before the 7 was better at higher end, but maybe now its better all over....Might even push an 8 at trackdays?!

Sometimes the engine feels right after town work and gradually goes bad -there's definate issues with the plugs!

If you boot it after low rpm and low load town work it runs nicely for about 45seconds then goes a touch mute and lumpy (this is a small in effect but it pissed me off) - suggesting the need for a cooler plug....the plugs only working in a very small operating window and rapidly gets overheats or something.

Its not as smooth as it was before, it was like silk.

Also the rad shroud is so effective the engine can't get over 65C on open road even in 21C heat this afternoon! , which compounds the plug issue surely? As when I blank the rad off and increase the temp the plugs are only gonna get hotter with the extra heat introduced in the engine?

I can only ramble atm till I can run the engine on the 7's tomorrow...Often you find the plug temp rating can make a huge difference to the smoothness of the motor...1 grade can make a motor -give a motor an utterly different character.

As I went round the houses and failed to find a fix I am lead to only 1 conclusion, the engine creating more cylinder heat now at all times and has moved into a solid BPR7ES heat range....

Its too early to drawn any great conclusions but this one seems obvious weighting up the facts.

I idled the engine in the garage with the 7's and seemed good...Also on the 6's and 50 idles it used to pop and bang a touch when rev'ed statically but drove superbly, on the 6 and 50 now -it seems too smooth to me, smooth at static seemed to equal crap under load before... As the 7 gave a bit of pop and bang rev'ed in the garage thinks should improve...Static revving on a tuned engine shouldn't be dead smooth from my previous experience, as this leads to a lean under-load driving condition, as static and loaded are two completely different things, and static reving character should be completely ignored and running underload is paramount.

As it fluffs on the 52idle, overlap is not as good to mains and plugs were a bit black. 120main is too rich, rough and lumpy - there is only 1 conclusion, proof of that conclusion will be tested tomorrow... I think when you get to 10:1 comp ratio that 7 plug is essential.

Bar this rough running it shows moments of clarity and I did give it 1 boot to 5K in 2nd and seemed pretty healthy!

So hard resisting the urge to see whats it got, i'll leave that for now! This roughness must be remedied first.

Major weight saving!

I remade the brackets holding my Kenlowe fan stilts in place, from alloy with lots of holes drilled through...I binned a washer or two also - the total saving was 88grams, they were 176 grams, exactly half! 8-) Not bad for 90minutes work.

Actually best plan would be to ditch the whole stupid kenlowe, fit an all plastic Pacet or metro fan that tiewraps to the rad saving those brackets, the stilts/poles and such. Not till it packs up however!

Had a beer, I must be ill or something...In need of medication 8-) I used to be a real hedonist once 8-)

Today

After completing my daily duty I fitted the pass door mech and made a little plate to cover the doorhandle hole. Thats 230grams saved. I spied the steel kenlowe pole mounts are ideal for alloy replacement, thats tomorrows task, must be 200grams there....so 2.7 ish kilos lost this week...I added 200 and a bit in the rad shroud...so 2.5ish.

Bled the brakes, roughly, i'll give them another bleed proper with new fluid sometime...I used Castrol SRF last time, dunno why, seemed to give a very tight pedal which is good for heal and toeing, and also the brakes were superb with good action and locked with minimal pedal pressure....Not solely down to fluid though GT6 brakes stop it on a 2p ! Lock up at any speed, lots of camber doesn't help..bit skitish in the wet I predict - so they are braking to the max of available grip, thats all you need!

I hammered the brake pedal towards the accelerator I think (ages ago), bent the arm, added a big alloy plate on the throttle pedal, you can always find the accelerator when braking now...Also added an adjustable clevis on the brake so the pedal. So it can be raised upwards towards you - so when the brakes are used at full power the brake pedal ends up 5mm further towards you than the accelerator pedal. This means you can easily roll the edge of your foot over and blip all downchanges or add power underbraking for stability in certain situations - while staying on the brake at optimum...Basic stuff, for race car. However, Advanced technique 8-)

Drove it ten miles without a windscreen frame, gearbox tunnel and roof! Bit windy, I cried, not with joy but with the wind past my sunglasses sucking the water out of my eyes and it was like being underwater wth your eyes open!....

It feels awesome! No rev's past 3500 for a short while and then 4000 for the next 200, then i'll break it in a bit at a time I don't think from initial feeling that its gonna need much running in it loosened up a bit already had chop the idle by 500rpm. I have noted the engine feels "lighter" in action when you blip a downchange etc, compared old one, also compared to the big crank engine I fitted for a short while its so different, so smooth when you rev it at static...No tapping or noise, rattles, its like a Rolls Royce! Purrs like a kitten, the exhaust has gone queiter and less booming its all different!

Feels great and SUPER balanced...its working nicely and driving it was a pleasure!...Idles like a wet dream, no movement at all, much less of a pulse/heartbeat at idle than the old engine even new?!?! Those wider new core camshaft lobes, less ramp? I question that there must be a marked difference between a grinder and a new cam going on the lobe shape, its much different and the cam is effectively the same thing figure wise...I'll need to feel the difference - better with less wind noise and battering!

It feels better anyway! I have yet to do the final tune too! Carbs need richer jets going on my plugs, cleaned up from sooty pretty quick, sooty from setting up, 52idle I think...Might also get some 115mains and some 117's to try. The roller rockers will require some change, but they are yet to be fitted, they will be tested on a rolling road with a Co2 probe, at my leasuire, against the stock ones...

I can rent the road for a day and I might ask Josh to come 8-) We can tune the MJL Ignition by holding the car on the rollers at set rpm, if it has that function, rent-a road, don't want some average joe playing with my engine thank you...Monkey see, Monkey do , Monkey do better each time, thats me 8-)

The cam comes on at 2500, fine before but gets legs here, you can feel a marked change in running clarity, also does this at static. Still yet to provoke any leaks or weaps or anything at all, my last one was dripping a few blobs overnight from day 1. Its all coming together. I didn't balance the old engine as well as this as it was as it came in unknown quality and just got reground and put back together for the last 2 rebuilds. This one is as good 8-) I noted that Josh's first engine felt smoother than mine in terms of rotating mass...I think this engine is gonna be so much better than my old one!

Also the crank case gas, or lack of must give more power...I can't wait to spin it to 7K+

I will oneday go over the entire car front to back cutting down bolts and screws to bare min for the nut....Winter I think 8-)

Feels like a giant rollerskate, hehe, stuck it round a corner or two, so unfussed just dives through. Alfa has polluted my mind , I will use the Spit on every dry day there is I think...I want one as an everyday car!!

Can't wait to get it done, then buy another engine and start on the next bottom-end over a relaxed period - so I can gun this one into destruction without hassling about breaking it and waiting for a fix, will be cam'ed differently bored to + 60 and further improved, I will go my own way on the cam, like josh, by using the software dyno. I don't want to be rushed into anything thesedays, rush to me a crap job. I want to make another gearbox too.

The next stage is changing my valves for lighter items and reducing the top end mass, ford race valves or something, I want to reduce mass here to the minimum and rev it higher again, need something left to do?!

I might even build something suitable for the odd race or two, maybe that Nurburging thing next year...Maybe I should build another car, a proper- race car 8-) Team Powell.

Work, Work, Work

People just won't leave me alone! Bar the odd day I have been on 10.30am till midnight for the last month, 7days a week basically, on all sorts. I need to have some down time!

Desperately trying to finish the spit now its not just been a bolt it back together job, bat the first bit! Taking ages... Summer is here (LOL) and the trackday is not far away. I want to get it well broken in first - its been built to be trashed all the time...Might have to book a ferry and drive to Nurburgring for a few laps then back, if I don't hurry up 8-)

So it now has a clutch and brakes, used some aeroquip hose and made my own flexi lines to the brake union and slave cylinder. No reason really. Just as good as hard line imo. Also means you can easily whip off the lines from the master cylinder cause they have swivelling connections so you can do up both ends without twist!

Jobs left:

Bolt bonnet on properly
Rear gearbox oil seal - tunnel fitting and sealing properly?
Windscreen frame- painting, oh god no!
Find laminated windscreen Fit windscreen frame, hardtop
Finish and fit the valance once its back from painting
Make some blanking plates for passenger door handle opening - no handle or lock will be fitted.
Fit lock and Striker to pass door
Errmmm....

Have to get a seat soon, you have to hang on for dear life atm 8-) Probably on A539 175/60/14 fronts and Bridgestone RE720 185/55/14 rears for a while...I thought the RE720's were instantly more effective before so handling won't be totally crisp till I have worn the fronts out. the 175/185 mismatch wasnt intensional but the handling was ok on it. If I can find some cheap RE720's i'll dump the A539's soon they are too hard for me, ok though.

The Shroud of Turismo

Knocked something up. Not quite the work of art I was intending. I just couldn't be bothered 8-) It'll do the job, job now done. Couldn't resist a blast of grey paint on it. I will be adding some kind of mesh behind before the radiator to catch stones, more towards the rad. Need to make some oil cooling moves soon, I want a 95C inline stat on it this time so its not block and heatsoak related.

No rest for the wicked.

Was intending to put the alloy Josh dropped over to good use, making a rad shroud. Also pondering cutting the arches from the bonnet and make some arches fixed to the bulkhead and chassis, completely watertight...shouldnt add any weight and keeps my engine bay mess free, dry and unsalted etc...the standard system is a bit useless and I don't want rubber seals and things.

Sadly I had to spend 8hrs fixing up a set of DHLA45E for a customer in the USA, I had been putting him off but he's persistant...They were looking pretty ugly being UK carbs, 8hrs later they look pretty damned good, bench tested ready to go! Used a wet blaster to restore the cases. He is converting from Zeniths? To proper carbs on his Lotus Esprit 907 engine. After some float valve issues I now test all carbs under pressure and set the fuel level not the float height....Time consuming business, my backs aching + sonic washer drills into your mind.

Also looks like tomorrow I'm sorting a set of 48's for a rally car in Ireland but lucky those are mint anyway so maybe only 2hrs there replacing gaskets and such. Might get this shroud made yet!

Whats up doc.

What the hell happened to the weather ! I was just getting into a nice summery groove, as a winter hater and a sunflower - this summer thing is far to short lived!!! Come on!! Next week forcasted rain and grey!

I seemed to get little done today...The jag is on target and needs another 20hrs or so over the next week to have it completely broken down, it hasnt taken long really, I'll be glad when the tub goes...I then have the more pleasant job of restoring the bits and pieces as units...I will blast most things and then etch and paint them satin black...Its just light and pleasant work that way, spraying is fun and there is no prep! letting machines do all the labour and it takes less time than arsing about. Thats work I like. I like clean assembly too, still plenty of disassembly to do, I am sure the susp is gonna be a pig, all the joints are held on with castle nuts and pins...gonna be fun, not! The motor will keep me busy for a while but on the whole I don't think its gonna that labourious as a project, most of the labour will be clean and pleasant work.

The spit has been far worse as I have to make stuff all the time and rack my brain.

I noted with these old engine gaskets its best to retorque the sump and timing cover once they have been heated a while, just happened to notice a glob of oil on one of the nuts, checked the torque and it had halved, hense a wee leak! Note for the future. Leak now fixed.

Oh and...

Failed mention thats cause its 3 wire it needs an ignition live feed to switch it on. So I can add a switch in the feed and turn it off, so gaining a tiny ammount of HP over a short period, absolutely useless I am sure, but worth a tenth over a 1/4mile?! A tenth is a tenth.

I'd like to measure the power required to run it under load, you could use a rotating mass software calc to work out the HP drain properly...

Also the L connect isnt any use as a lamp saying its charging etc, I can only assume its a warning light, overheating or regulator failure etc...I dont see how I can make a charging lamp with it....As the lamp only tells you the alternator is dead, the belt has fallen off and such- its actually pretty useless, so who cares! Your gonna drive it till the battery dies anyway, atleast it'll just die and you wont have to worry about the light being on, ignorance is bliss....although being as the EWP and fuel pump are vital to the engine, as both can melt it, potentially...


I may fit an amps gauge....but then the aldon unit cuts out at 10volts(ish), so thats a security device as the motor will stop anyways...brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr building in some security!

Visitors and alternator findings

Had Carruthers, Dawson and Bowler down today. Fiddled with Dawsons Dellorto and he left with a rather different car to the one he arrived in, it was in need some attention, partly my fault with a batch of funny float valves I had about that time, also some hardcore salt corrosion on the pump arm, which was a bit siezed, chain lube it mate, smoother it and alloy shield needed!

Was driving perfectly through progression, idling well and when i tested it was a complete pleasure after full check over and static idle jetting. For a stock motor and such, it was surely putting out most of what it had to give, a little more time on the mains it'll go better again I'd say 10%! It came to me easily and the jetting and was very close - bar tiny fluff in the mid range, upper range, rich I thought. Needed more time than we had so he left with some jets and advise!! So that was pleasing. I have never seen a rain shower so heavy as when they left, hail, snow, sleet and someone with a firehose spraying from the heavens!

Good to sort something out so easily and keep someone happy!

I tested the alternator it works, it will drain FAR less power than the old one, the idle doesn't drop at all really when the fan comes on. The old one dragged 100-120rpm off the idle speed due to load. So I guess its worth a HP or two- at the highend...Also the rotating mass is under half as much as the A127, so the drag of the alternators centre spinning about 15000rpm at 6K rpm must cain hp, its under drag too.... That weights about half? the mass of the alternator...? You have to accelerate that mass , decelerate it and its under drag. So I'd expect it to make a small difference, like ditching the water pump for the EWP, but less so..That made a "good" difference, especially on the 4.11 in 2nd, it was noticeable right away, but small in effect, less stuff to rotate, more spin up speed.

The lighter you make the car the faster it can get going, so the spin up speed on the engine and drivetrain becomes even more noticeable and effective, it really starts to add up...Punches like a boxer!

Alternator doesnt load up at idle much, as its a generator that is more scaled it doesnt give max volts, output at idle? At 2000rpm it gives about 14.7Volts which is the same as the A127 I didnt compare amps yet, the A127 gave 14.7V all the time when needed, also it loaded up alot lower in the rpm, dragging idle down....I am sure the new one can cope with my fan, ewp, high power headlights and such, the A127 had no problems, overkill but extremely good for battery charge!

2.2 kilo saving!! Alternator Joys!

I have been waiting for this day! Ditch the massive alternator!



Not sure whats its off, its a Denso alternator its tennie wennie.

It needed a mount system, so i went to the engineering shop and rented the lathe for a bit and made one from alloy, it just slots over the bolt and into the hole on the engine plate...

This alloy thing -was all that was needed bar a bolt of the right length and size, I drilled out the alternator bracket to the same size (10mm) as the fixing hole on the alternator mounting bracket....1 bolt runs through all.

Its so diddy! Filler cap was grey'ed!

Mounted on rod ends and threaded bar (I have got big into this grey thing).

Uses a 900mm length standard width fanbelt, halfords job, could use a 895-890mm with more inclination to the block but you'll need to remove the alternator to change the belt, so 900 is best!

At this stage a 2.2kilo score is hard to find without butchery, all at the front too! I think i'm a good 12-13kilos lighter than last time i drove it.

Onward!

Some forward motion, but it involved some expense.

Added two new flanges to my Prop. I used a proper GKN hardy spicer joint on the dodgy one. Sadly the prop really needs a new rear cup holder on the main body and the cups weren't as tight as I'd have liked, but after a bit of treatement they were better - i'll see how it fairs over running in and if the cups start moving again i'll get the prop done properly before trashing as I'd rather not have one shread the bottom of the car to bits....The new flanges really pinch the cups hard, they arent moving so they will be good for few joint swaps yet...I usually hate UJ's but these were a doddle...

I got a nice Denso 40amp mini alternator for £56 on ebay, brand new. Same as one in the kit sold by Canley. I wanted a new one as reliability is my aim and Denso is great kit. So I was waiting for one of those. The A127 is good but its HP cainer at 70amps- heavy, big.

Missed out on 44litres of the old style Castrol RS 10-60w oil yesterday...was gonna sell some on and have free oil for a year or so. Oh well. Might try some synthetic this time, as hopefully it wont piss it all out or burn it...I'll see. Fair bit was stuck to the rear valance before 8-) Which reminds me I must make a wind deflector spoiler...

Jobs left - Fit alternator and make some mount system, find belt. Fit clutch pedal and master cylinder, slave, fit new clutch line, braided. Fit gearbox tunnel. Get valance back from painting and then make a new base plate and bolt it on...its changed a bit. Paint windscreen frame, sadly this involves paint and prep, I cant stand prep, anything more than blasting then on the with etch, then gloss is murder...

Not alot.

Blow Job

After noticing a tiny pull on the oil filler cap when removing it with the motor running, I made further investigation with a special instrument, a piece of old sock - I found I have ZERO blow by in the engine and actually a mild vacuum!!!!....Hold the sock over the filler cap it goes concave and stretches which obviously means the crank case is under a negative pressure situation...very slightly...I have never seen this before...if you stick out hand on it, it does suck on your hand very slightly....

Also when holding the sock 2cm over the filler cap it vibrates like a drum at very high speed, the speed of the pair of pistons going up and down in each stroke and no gas really being ejected......the only air in the engine is what is naturally there and its being pumped by the pistons and moved about, I can pickup this cycle on my stock tool 8-) I might stick a strobe on it and take another look....

Can't be any other reason than near perfect seal on all chambers, and no leak out. As the compression test showed I had all 5 within 5psi or so, before bedding in....

Anyways I was very happy to see this cause leaks, oil seals and oil will be much better off like this....

Well...

Jag progressing, its quite modular. Engine out next week, just need to whip the exhaust off, loosen up the box and prop and remove the ancillaries...actually bar the rear suspension it might be very quickly apart once the engine is out.

I can then unbolt the entire front subframe and the suspension as 1 then get rid of the tub for 2months and get some space back! Engine has a load of leaks, oil seals etc, think I will pulling it apart to assess why, the sealer used is one reason. Also get the head refaced, as the leaks need to go and they arent going to go with a polite word or a sweet nothing etc, so forcing me into serious work! oh well......it was rebuilt in America I think and they don't have a good rep in this area, the sealer used is smoothered on and pouring out of all the seals and there's JB weld here and there bunging up some leaks! the sump has two gaskets on etc...muppet job. I hope I am not drawn into a lengthy affair with a 4.2L 6 cyl. Once the spits done it will be easier.

Painted my rocker cover on the spit thats all I have done this week! Looks nice engine coloured. Fitted it with a different and hopefully leak free bolting down method...Used 2x Twin 40 cosworth type rubber doughnuts that you use on the manifold studs with DCOE and DHLa carbs....and single rubber on each stud without any cap below it, it runs on the cover and a single retainer cap under the nut which stops it preading out...it squishes the rubber doughnut down and seals on the stud and cover, makes bolting down less stressfull to the rocker cover too.

Had to spend about £20 on some stuff, hose and sundries.

I am going to paint my windscreen frame black to match the hardtop, which i might give a new coat to, but 2 pack this time...I need to a laminated screen also cause that heavy triplex just isnt an option...

I know the cars gonna be great so the rush to experience it is not too great, I have never completely finished any car before getting it back on the road before! This ones gonna be different! I just know its gonna make me grin, oneday!

Next Winter there are more mods/lightening planned....

Little Brothers Big Brother

A distraction has arrived. Can't see much happening on the spit this month. Its a Series 1 and half E-type it has 265hp and 4.2Litres of CC, 4 speed! Its gotta be stripped to the bone for first week in June. Its quick car, good ride and balanced handling, the engine behind the front wheels so good weight dist. I am taking care of its mechanicals while its being painted, the tub will going for paint elsewhere and come back black, looks like I am then giving everything a once over and reassembling the entire thing and trimming it... Stripped the inside and rear trim and lights etc to the front doors tonight, will try and get it stripped completely of trim and outer fittings tomorrow... Then bonnet off and get the motor out as it leaks and needs some careful and meticulous attention, its a good runner with decent pressure, feeble by my Triumph standards 8-) Then drop the front subframe and suspension off as one lump....It looks pretty basic and easy to work on....lot of stuff under the bonnet 8-) Its a sound runner and the tubs pretty solid.

Details

Just finishing off things. Near done. Satisfied the engine is good at this stage, no leaks or weaps at all, yet.

Fitted the regulator properly and plumbed up the fuel line.

Sorted out the header tank by adding another pipe pickup at the top, so the swirl pot dumps its water/air into the waterless part of the header tank, so purging bubbles. Neatened up the water piping.

You may have noticed a longer stud in a funny location on the motor, well all becomes clear. It was drilled and tapped and an alloy ring bolted to onto the top which holds the throttle cables, water pipes free of the head and this only thing needed to locate them firmly bar two tiewraps, the ring edges were buffed so not to cut the pipes over time...No need for anymore fixing points, the pipes etc all hold eachother in place from the tank at the other end...Neat and simply...about 10grams! Ring just pressures the pipes slightly so they stay in place...a scrap from my alloy ewp manifold pipes came in handy!

From above. No bullshit engine bay, everything serves a function, some items serve multiple functions, like brackets and alike...I can't really simplify the thing anymore, this is bare minimum! This system has been honed for a longwhile! The water system takes 7.4litres, which is quite a bit and heavy! But durable and good for cooling.

I made the header tanks extra top pipe inlet fixing from a broken Dellorto fuel union, cut off the pipe bit with a retainer ring and tapped one end to 5/16th, drilled a hole in the header tank cut it to 5/16, smoothered some JB Weld on the thread and screwed it in till it bit the uncut flange, being a fan of bonding it saves welding it and will be just as good me thinks....

Also I deemed the swirl pot pipe/outlet to big and as it flows hot water from the engine back to the header tan, which then goes back to between the rad and water pump it doesnt go to the rad directly, the swirl pots water never gets cooled, so I restricted the flow down to 3mm I/D to encourage more water through the rad and less going round the header tank and bubble purging system....

Brrrroooooooom

A growling beast hast been released from its winter sleep.

All good. Compression within about 2% (ta josh 8-) and average 193psi ...Josh says theoretic best is 195 on my compression so not half bad. I have over 100% on one 8-) dunno how that works.

I use my own start up proceedcure which is just what i do for some reason...it changes every time.

I finally torque the head down after 5-6minutes of running while hot to 58 flbs torque, this is my prefered setting for some reason.

Firstly I go to 55lbs on the head on build up.

Checked fuel pressure, float levels and base balanced the carbs by the pulling on one lever technique+ set timing, built up oil pressure etc. I run it for 1minute at 2K without any water, in two 30sec stages with a check on things between each and timing roughly set on a strobe- I dry run to get the head gasket glue to soften up without any water getting involved due to noticing some negative effects of just flopping on a gasket and adding water before you have atleast heated the gasket up, I then let it cool and add water.

I also drilled out the copper washers from the head gasket as they are not needed on mine, I thought they might not compress as well as the gasket and seems stupid to leave them in place with the oil riser blocked.

Then run for 2mins at 2000rpm (always 2K) to help lighten the loads on the new cam, then stop check oil, water, leaks etc. I can get hectic here as it will bake itself fast if anything is a amiss, so a constant check on the dials needed...

If all is well I then go again for 3mins and get to 95C at the end, let it cool a touch then re-torque to the final 58lbs. You can feel the gasket compress at this stage and 55 lbs build torque has definately lost some grip cause the gasket glue spreads with heat and you loose some thickness with more torque.

I then drop the rpm 1500rpm as the cam has had 6minutes and its past danger point me thinks and 1500 is still ok for cam bedding---I then set the carbs balance up and make the first attempt at adjusting idle mixture screws and get a smooth high tickover going. Thats about a minute so after 7minutes over a few hours its ready for the road, I'd ignore the idle speed, leave it at that and do another 15minutes on the road then lower the idle, finally balance the carbs and airbleeds then set the idle mixture...job done.

I want to keep running under low ring pressure to the min so 7minutes is about minimum I think before road testing and getting in 4th at low rpm and getting some mean cylinder pressure up.

Think oil pressure will be very very good going on first signs.

The oil feed to the rockers restrictor is too big still at 1.4mm, I will downsize to 1.2 next, still too much oil in the top of the engine, the roller rockers have a much tighter clearance on the shaft with flat bushes so they will let less out and so the flow on those will be less anyways.

Musings

Finished the bonnet wiring, fitted the lights and neated everything up.

Built up and fitted the stock rockers, I cleaned them in the sonic bath with some dishwasher cleaner, it really cleans well! they were black and came out like new ! credit to finish dishwasher cleaner the blue stuff. It cleans alloy of a type like the pedestals superbly!

Set the tappets to 16".

Rocker covers vent pipe has been moved to the other side, its away being welded up.

Nearly there, still need to prep my valance and get it top coated...hmm, I must say the car looks amazing fitted up, like a spitfire on steriods.

Jobs to do before it moves again : propshaft, fit pressure regulator and plumb fuel line, get header tank welded and fitted, test run the motor at 2000 rpms for a few minutes, couple of small jobs left...Windscreen frame needs painting black....Not alot...

Todays bits

Not much done today, did 12hrs real work to enable some more slacking time and 2hrs on the car.

Made the first bit of the rad shroud with my last bit of very thin alloy. Finally fitted the dissy, used some welseal on the gasket for a change as I could never 100% de-leak this area...I found the best dissy drive gear I could find, result is that there is no play at all between the rotar arm and camshaft gear, also the cam is 100% new, not a grinder to the gear hasnt been atleast 50,000 already! no play on the dissy drive etc at all, sweet never had it so good....found a poofy breather filter for my catch tank under a pile of stuff.

Went over everything I have attached to just check its all done up ! it was.

Statically timed it. Bit more wiring work.

Might sort the valance tomorrow...ergh bodywork....

Starter Motor

Dunno if i mentioned it - I got my high torque starter for £10, two and half years ago....its been used loads and loads ramping up oil pressure before starting.

Its from an Isuzu Trooper 2.6 injection....you just need to skim 3-4mm from the starter motors alloy moutning ring.

Its the same item sold for about £170! I was scoffed at by some bloke selling them at a show when I told a bunch of people near by to just buy them from a scrapyard for £10...The bloke mumbled something about worth buying new cause they last at this rate I can buy 17 2nd hand units to one new one...thats already 34years and counting...Must be used to Lucas cause Nippon - Denso stuff is just run in after 200,000 miles on a Trooper 8-)