Wednesday, December 21, 2005

Adjustable Wishbones

Finally got them welded. Its just 24mm solid box section of steel cut to 1.25" lengths and pressed into the wishbone section, then welded all round. There is a 3/8th tapped hole to take a 3/8th by 3/8th rod end. Should be strong enough, I may drill the suspension tower holes to 7/16 and re-drill the holes bigger in the blocks, to 7/16th and use bigger rod ends., but the car is light and 3/8th would be fine.

I had to set the blocks to match each fitted position to get a roughly centred rod end in the mounting section on the towers. So each wish has a place. I just need to pop down to the engineering shop and get the lock nut faces recut as they are smoothered with weld, probably a quick job the valve seat cutting machine...

I suppose they will have cost about £100 with the rod-ends, but who cares, there is no SWMBO here whining, the car will cost as much as it costs!!

I have the urge to buy up some alloy hubs and hi-spec princess alloy pattern calipers next. I don't care how much it costs I must have that huge saving in weight and most important, unsprung mass. I imagine the suspensions residual velocity will be much improved by effectively halfing the mass unsprung without the wheel...

Talking of wheels I'd like some mag minilites really these Minilites are quite heavy (cheap) a noticable increase in residual suspension velocity when I fitted them, not good - the suspension wanting to carry on in the direction it has been wacked by a bump..The bane of the rotoflex thing or any lead suspension setup...

On the alloy hubs you best watch the bearing track reciever issue, I think Jigsaw's are more expensive as they are made from higher quality alloy and worth the cash I suspect, they look very different to Canley's (I don't think they are up to the job of racing, road different matter however, talked this over with another opinionated person, a past TSSC champion a while back). Either way you can expect them to be scrap after 3-4 changes of bearing tracks as the alloy track reciever will be prone to unlarging and also takes the heat/hammering from fitting the tracks, its softer than the tracks of course so will be the first thing to be damaged, so if the tracks enlarge the reciever grooves when removing and fitting eventually they grow to the point the track's spin and wreck the hub as they rely solely on friction to stay in place, if you change tracks regulary beware.

I am sure the guys selling them would rather you didn't know that, but its a fact. Alloy items are much more fragile than steel...Also wonder how much testing was done on the units, probably fark all.

Looks like HE15 type copper bearing alloy Jigsaw uses is far higher quality than the cheap canley units.

Marks units look like the ones Merlin Motorsport sell for Fords much shiner denser material different animal, these they have had many years of testing on race cars, unlike the cheaper units, I wouldn't risk my car to save £100.

I can endorse the front alloy engine plates as good, bar the weld was a bit pigeon shitty in one place so I got it redone and beefed up.

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