DIY CV conversion Part 2...How to get CV joints on your car!

Finally my man Rob sorted the spacers. First sets prepared today, they were machined as blanks I did the hole drilling and thread tapping myself.

I have made these a favour to the guys needing them, no money in this type of thing, just hassle.

There are 4 spare pairs of spacers that can be setup for either small flange diff's or later large flange ones, to recoup some costs incurred the last sets are £89 a pair for large flange items and £96.50 for small flange ones.

First come first serve davidpowell@clara.co.uk

I doubt I will be getting any more made, so if your interested in this conversion you will save a packet as I produced these as a bulk lot. Piece work costs once you factor measuring, time and 1 off lathe production.

Image shows now the adaptor plate mates the diff output flange to the Lobro Volvo 340 joint. It bolts on to the diff flange with 4x 3/8th bolts. You will need to possibly shorten any bolts so they don't protrude into the cone area on the rear of the adaptor, as seen below, the area recessed for the CV balls to run up to..Simply test bolt the spacer to the diff flange and if the bolts protrudes into the cone, shorten it as necessary.

Early car flywheel bolts 3/8" are VERY strong and ideal for this application, Fit with spring washers and loctite, recheck bolt tension after say 50miles.

Side view of the Lobro 340 Volvo joint attached to diff flange and adaptor plate. The Volvo has 2 of these joints on each driveshaft, so 1 shaft will complete the conversion. The Volvo joint comes with the M8 - 1.25 thread bolts needed to fit the Lobro casing to the adaptor plate. Any old M8-1.25cut bolt will do provided its the correct length.

The parts required for this end of the conversion.

Adaptor plates all lonely with no home!

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Beast update. I have this feeling I am swinging towards building up another 1300, using yet more lessons learned from the last pile of engines to build a better one.

Been speaking to a few headflowers and flow bench guru's about a new head.

I guess a nitrided crank and some steel rods and forged pistons + 1 piece valves should give me some good security if I limit the rev's to 7250rpm. Bar the valve thing I reckon it would have run on for a good time.

I am just not sure I can be bothered with an engine swap, diff swap and rear suspension swap required etc...