Boing

Just Tig welding and enlarging the holes left to complete.

They are exactly the same in every way.

Also need to lathe up some side spacers from the old lower bush pin.



Have to just mill out the seats again slightly for the front two bolts once tig'ed. Not much room.
Pretty heavy duty stuff.

Boing Boing part something.

Bit more progress.

I delayed cause I was pondering some mount Las Vegas Steve showed me a picture of...However working the load calc on the bearings having them flat, I'd have needed to spend £60UKP per bearing to ensure they lasted, as normal ones can only take 1000lbs or so...So I went with the cheap method. The bearings match the load specs on the ones AVO supplied and cost £5 a piece! I'll see how they go, no real movement on them anyway.
Made up these brackets and finished them off on a mill today. There will be another two pieces added to each, TIG'ed on both sides 4mm. The plates are 5mm and will fixed with top grade 3/8th black bolts and K-Nuts and hardened washers on the other side, then can be welded in later if needed or to commitment to the idea. Nothing bad would happen anyway if anything fatigued, the suspension will just drop 1/2" till the top spring mount meets the upright.
In engineering terms it should go on the otherside...However to me this is fine!
Other parts welded on will make the rest of the bracket.

AVO sent me the wrong bearings 1/2", no biggy will just enlarge the holes in the wishbones and use 1/2" bolts.

Spitfire @ Curborough 2

The wheels on the bus go round and round, round and round, round and round, the wheels on the bus go round and round.......

Spitfire @ Curborough

Noisey beast.

Davesideways Crazy Triumph Spitfire

Davesideways Crazy Triumph Spitfire

50 to about the imperial conversion of around 2200lbs in a few seconds...

Davesideways Crazy Triumph Spitfire

Another old video :)

Davesideways Crazy Triumph Spitfire

You can now post your youtube videos direct to your blog...How boring! Bedtime.

Boing Boing Part 3...said Zebedy after ingesting yet another sugarcube...

New and old. Had my two sets of springs tested. One set was 506lbs and the other set 434lbs. They have gone soft from what they were meant to be!

I decided to give 475lb 2.25" / 6" free springs a run....Should equate to something like 600+ on a heavy car. I can get more springs to try later.

New units are 1200grams each including top seat.
2300grams for the old setup. I suppose I'll come out about 600grams per side lighter overall.
Just modified the seats on a lathe. The bottom seat being loose enough to operate the threading...The top seat being a firm fit in the spring, they won't be falling out anymore anyway...
So thats about it for now. Couldn't get any rod-ends I wanted so ordered some. Got my steel though.

Part 1 done...the brackets will be easy....If anyone likes this idea, I might be tempted to produce 10sets. Advise for hardcore drivers only, race, very fast road.

So normal versus new.

This is why I am not interested in racing...I'd spend 10years building the car...I don't see any race cars with such things on? Surely a benefit...Too much off the shelf junk thats easily fitted me thinks! Same old crap turned out year on year, no genuine ingenuity off the shelf bar from Dave Pearson and TLD...A genuine failing overall within the market, if you ask me...

Oh and AVO kindly agreed to send me some bearings free, nice of him to call....They sent all the replacement bushes free too, to be fair there was a batch of bad ones kicking out and I still don't think they had fixed problem with the last set...

The guy there started trying to tell me there is no problem, and that a 15mm seat is ok for a polybush, that the problem is related to suspension......At this point my pulse raised and I was about let off, so I kindly said I do not agree at all and thanked him for the bearings and ended the call.

Boing Boing Part 2 + blah blah.

Okay. Let me elude my master plan.

Below is the normal top mount system with the additional spring retainer.

The ride height is chocked up as normal...Note there is ONLY 3/4" inch left before the bump stop...Same as before...NOT good...Always annoyed me. Also as a result FAR too much droop potential, all the shocks movement!...(remember my test idea of straps to reduce it? - no longer needed)

Useless! I intend to lower the car even more, so this is no use...Lets throw away the crappy rubber doughnuts, top spring seat and start fresh.
No good!
Bin this. You're left with the thing below. Suddenly you have 2" of travel before the stop....Also you have only 1/2" of droop when jacked up, or cornering before it cocks the inside wheel...Now when fully opened out, the shock can be used as a droop limiting device and shock. All problems with travel are gone. Droop level now adjustable via rod-end thread. (see below)
As removed, 2" of travel from static ride height.
Below shows about 1/2- 3/4" of droop before the shock stops it...1/2" -3/4" is around the amount the 500lbs spring will compress with the car on it...So no more rattling springs and no need for helper springs and tiewraps. I don't mind cocked wheels under hard cornering, alot of race cars do it, not that roll was an extreme problem before, plus I can tune the level.
Below shows where are static ride the 6" 2.25" spring will leave the bottom seat...I could even go to 5" springs.
Now the cunning part...Tap a thread of 7/16th onto the stub left on the shocker rod. Add a rod end bearing (shown item for display only). This allows for the movement in and outward of the bottom wishbone, you cannot just solid mount the shock at the top, it must swing with the wishbone...
I haven't done that yet, I need a bearing and some more thoughts on the droop level and stuff.
This is the basic idea...I just need to make a U bracket that bolts through the existing 3 holes for the top spring seat...This will take a 1/2" bolt...the rod-end will be 7/16 by 1/2". I will add another plate below the turret to strengthen the area, enlarge the 1/4" holes to 3/8th and job will be done...
Rough diagram...You get the idea...

Lots of birds with 1 stone...

Lacking bump space and bump stop fouling fixed

Excessive droop problem fixed.

Bespoke adjustment of droop before wheel lift

Reduce mass and run special short springs
Increase shock action by removing rubber parts

Ability to run the chassis on the floor - not that important but possible :)

I shall pop to Merlins tomorrow and select some springs and get the rod-ends, hopefully have this bit cracked this week, can then clean up that shockingly foul suspension!

Basic but effective...You could just buy two more shocks with eyes at either end, but they are not perfect as the eyelet doesn't protrude vertically by a great distance..So adapt what you have!...

I have actually about 5 ways in my mind, all of which come to the same result...sleep on those ideas.

I'll pickup some steel tomorrow too.....

Then there is the small issue of copying the "windmill plastics cars" front top wishbone setup?...Extending the front top wishbone pickup from the turret forwards to a new turret, about 7" forwards by the radiator...So giving no movement forward or backward at the top ball joint and allowing its position to be adjusted, castor......and upright location will be VASTLY improved under load, braking especially...

Also strengthening the lower wishbones, making them 100% stiffer...By "boxing" them up a bit and adding Bill from Rare-bits-for-classics solid lower wishbone bushes used on the early Heralds....Mods galour :)

Screw it, may as well do it now!

Also the wishbone brackets need longer bolts...Got this sudden rush of motivation now the car is coming together and looking so ace!

Said I was gonna leave it didn't I :)

ANY PICS OR INFO on the Plastic Spitfire with the funny front suspension GLADLY recieved...Windwill Plastic car?

I'll ponder my suspension options for a while..

Boing Boing Zebedy!

I may have to withdraw my endorsement of the benefits of AVO..Just like them as they are adjustable on car with seat base adjustment.

Hardly what you expect from a 4000mile old, ZERO salt used shock?

I only gave them a wash with white spirit and blasted them with water...

The paint melts then falls off, what wasn't already hanging off...Anyway, stripped down now and I will remove this "paint" and etch them and repaint them...Shite.
I will using this upper mount supplied (shown below) on 2.25" springs from Merlin Motorsport...They do any size, any poundage...The seats may need lathing down slightly. No biggy as the fit is rubbish anyway, the spring all loose and wagging about on the bases...I will size the seats to fit FIRMLY on the retainer rings on top and bottom seats...

This funny top mount lowers the spring level or length requirement by 2"...The springs were 9" Free, miles too long, adjustment base was 4 turns from max low setting...

I will be running 6" FREE 2.25" springs of 500lbs? for a start, this will mean the adjuster seat is half way up the shaft. I will take my old springs down to Merlins and hopefully they can test the poundage and I will go 50lbs lighter to account for engine etc.

Also this means that the springs will be about 3/5ths the weight of the 2.5" 9" ones on there (2.2kilos) and it'll mean tight springs and a neat rig...

The 2.5 I/D springs are actually 2.75", so thats why they are loose...I may not even have to adjust the bases...

Anyway It'll be infinately better.

Also the poly bushes in the base are stuffed, 3rd set in 4000miles...Pissed off. I contacted AVO asking for a set of bearings to be sent free, if they want any more business. You know why they are stuffed? Cause in the old days AVO did two bodies one with a WIDE tube for a stock shock bush and one with a thinner base eye for a bearing...Now to save money they just wack out one type with a thin width eye and slap a poly in the bearing bodies...How can you expect any bush to last when the surface its running inside is only 15mm wide, versus 40mm for the stock bush...

INLIGHT OF THIS OBVIOUS PROBLEM ONLY BUY AVO WITH SPHERICAL BEARINGS IN THE BOTTOM AND BUY TWO 7/16th SIDE SPACERS for rose joints to centralise them on the bolt with some washers to take out the slack...YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

The shocks on Matts car are some better made early ones...Quality has really fallen in the last few years...I won't be buying anymore. I won't be using KONI either...Atleast not normal ones...

The guy spraying them obviously doesn't use anything better than some shite from B&Q, they should be etched and 2packed. As I will do...

I be will modifying the way the shock meets the tower, making it hardmounted, so NO rubber bushes. and reinforcing the area. Total control!

Fuel system fun - blah blah.

This POST is now REPAIRED

Well it was time to finalise. Being as some parts of Matt's rather large selection of off-cuts are excess to requirements, seems silly not to exchange them for labour. Which works for us both.

I mentioned splicing in a fuel pressure gauge to a union. So here it is. Its an alloy carb union now modified with a 3/8" UNF hole tapped into it. This takes a JIC 3 > JIC3 adaptor with the nose ground off.

I brought a number of these nice -3 connectors for £1.80 each. You can see one now screws into the other.
Wanting to run JIC 6 > 1/8NPT connectors on my fuel regulator involved stripping it.

Pulling about the brass inserts.

Drilling an 8.5mm hole, tapping a 1/8th NPT connector thread down the bore.
Easy as pie, why buy another for £40?

The gauge will be fed via the braided line. The final line will have a 90 connector this is just a clutch line I had knocking about.

This was the simple solution I wanted...On standard unions (gold thing) I'd just do the same.
These unions and fuel lines were left over from when Matt's car was on twin Webers with Nitrous system. His car will be running a different carb now (single). So these are excess to requirements, seems stupid to break them down and sell them for peanuts when they happen to fit on! I'll sort him with a nice red and blue forged adaptor for the new carb and some hours in exchange. Nice rig.


------------------------

Best method for cutting the braided dash 6 line is to use a cut off disk in a dremel, no fraid ends. Band with masking tape, atleast 3 layers.
Been left with numerous malpassi brackets over the years, finally put one to use!

This houses the regulator on the engine mount.

Like so.



90 adaptor will run the main line down to the chassis off the open adaptor. I will weld on a simple bracket to the chassis. In the bracket will be housed a -6 goodridge 90deg bulkhead adaptor. Meeting Krontec alloy tube one end and the braided the other. This means fuel injection will be a bolt on job to whats there.

Another off cast labour exchange item. An incorrectly ordered Racetech fuel pressure gauge. Another was ordered as this one came with no light function...no hassle for me!
Take it apart, in 2mins.

>Drill an 8mm hole, just enough to get a conecutter in...Ream to size.
Use a Bit to punch it over inside and add some epoxy.

20minutes work its a unit with a light. Had to murder an old Triumph gauge, but a set of racetech capillaries going in anyway.

Stuck the engine and box together for Matt this afternoon, removed the front suspension ready for adjusting the shock tower, few other small jobs. Have to get on hassle all these people next week who are not delivering on promises! !


Further jobs on mine of immediate priority:

Get an ITG panel filter on the trumpets...Involves making a backplate (I have all the fixings). The backplate will be Tig'ed to the trumpets about half way down them. The trumpets and backplate being 1 unit, taken off easily as a unit, and very neat.

I changed my water pipe idea after I knocked up some alloy tubes, by making that unit I showed before, below the carbs on the block...As such I may just get a single piece of alloy tube, get it bent 180 in place of hoses and clips that made up the section to the EWP...I can cut the thermostatic mechanism from the inline fan controller and just glue it to the tube...Making it super simple. Just a small 3" length section of hose joining the water manifold to the new alloy section...First real backtrack, but its a better design (MUCH lighter!). Again this as with the entire fuel system will be removed with the engine.

Radiator shrouding.

Make bracket for Apollo Oil-deairation tank.

Harness fun

Adding lots of mounts! Used big steel plates behind these 60x60mm.

Anti-Sub straps run under the seat, only place I can fix them as the seat is 18mm off the floorpan in the recessed part, also here to get adjustment on the belts by reaching under the seat front.

Like so. This also allows me to remove the straps easily for daily use.
Rear belts shortened by 45cm to just what is needed with the adjustment centralised on the adjuster on your chest. Ideally you should have these belts horizontal from the seat slots...But the seat slots are above my shoulders so no need, as getting my spine compressed will not happen as the seat slots will take the downwards tighening action. Most race spits are like this anyways.


There is only 1inch of rearward movement left on the seat due the angle I want, so no use for tall drivers, its MY car anyway. The steering column is on maximum extension and my driving position is further back than before, legs a bit straighter....All helps weight dist. Sitting pretty low, a bit lower that before...Have to get the bonnet back on to see what its like before making some alloy triangular mounts for the seat runners to fix onto at the correct angle...Nice job on the mill at the engineering shop. No bits of wood etc!

I must say the seat is great, no impeded arms or anything, really well formed ergonomically, PERFECT for the car in every way. I may make some small bolsters to just slighly adjust a few areas. Such as the front edge of the seat, I just like something under my legs on the edge to work against... So a 1inch thick firm pad covered in leather would be good here as your legs are still a bowed up like normal, there's a little air under them...I like to sink into a seat. This was the same on the normal seat till I cut it, added less angle between back and base and jacked the front up 2" on blocks and welded it into a new shape, packed it with packing in some areas, removed some from others. Custom fit, hense I was never bothered by the seat on the track, it was a glove. Thats about it for adjustments...Well worth a 2 year wait on ebay :)

I also worked a really neat (simple) solution to the fuel line location to the carbs...Basically the regulator will sit on the drivers side engine mount, lines off the carbs on goodridge connectors will run forward, not to the bulkhead, dropping a line down to meet the regulator...The regulator spans the engine mount inline with the chassis legs (front to back)...A line from the carbs down to meet the regulator at one end, the other connection drops down the chassis where it meets the line from the boot (hardline meeting straight bulkhead JIC6 connector..)..meaning minimal connections.. This means I just have to unclip one line and pull the engine out with the carbs, regulator and everything still attached...Really simple and my bulkhead will be bare! I need to work a pressure gauge in too...May fit one on the dash running from somewhere...Tapping a hole into a carb union end and putting a -3 > NPT connector in? braided line into the cabin as with all these JIC connectors you cannot whip off a line and test pressure...I don't want a regulator with a gauge something more simple.