Fuel system fun - blah blah.

This POST is now REPAIRED

Well it was time to finalise. Being as some parts of Matt's rather large selection of off-cuts are excess to requirements, seems silly not to exchange them for labour. Which works for us both.

I mentioned splicing in a fuel pressure gauge to a union. So here it is. Its an alloy carb union now modified with a 3/8" UNF hole tapped into it. This takes a JIC 3 > JIC3 adaptor with the nose ground off.

I brought a number of these nice -3 connectors for £1.80 each. You can see one now screws into the other.
Wanting to run JIC 6 > 1/8NPT connectors on my fuel regulator involved stripping it.

Pulling about the brass inserts.

Drilling an 8.5mm hole, tapping a 1/8th NPT connector thread down the bore.
Easy as pie, why buy another for £40?

The gauge will be fed via the braided line. The final line will have a 90 connector this is just a clutch line I had knocking about.

This was the simple solution I wanted...On standard unions (gold thing) I'd just do the same.
These unions and fuel lines were left over from when Matt's car was on twin Webers with Nitrous system. His car will be running a different carb now (single). So these are excess to requirements, seems stupid to break them down and sell them for peanuts when they happen to fit on! I'll sort him with a nice red and blue forged adaptor for the new carb and some hours in exchange. Nice rig.


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Best method for cutting the braided dash 6 line is to use a cut off disk in a dremel, no fraid ends. Band with masking tape, atleast 3 layers.
Been left with numerous malpassi brackets over the years, finally put one to use!

This houses the regulator on the engine mount.

Like so.



90 adaptor will run the main line down to the chassis off the open adaptor. I will weld on a simple bracket to the chassis. In the bracket will be housed a -6 goodridge 90deg bulkhead adaptor. Meeting Krontec alloy tube one end and the braided the other. This means fuel injection will be a bolt on job to whats there.

Another off cast labour exchange item. An incorrectly ordered Racetech fuel pressure gauge. Another was ordered as this one came with no light function...no hassle for me!
Take it apart, in 2mins.

>Drill an 8mm hole, just enough to get a conecutter in...Ream to size.
Use a Bit to punch it over inside and add some epoxy.

20minutes work its a unit with a light. Had to murder an old Triumph gauge, but a set of racetech capillaries going in anyway.

Stuck the engine and box together for Matt this afternoon, removed the front suspension ready for adjusting the shock tower, few other small jobs. Have to get on hassle all these people next week who are not delivering on promises! !


Further jobs on mine of immediate priority:

Get an ITG panel filter on the trumpets...Involves making a backplate (I have all the fixings). The backplate will be Tig'ed to the trumpets about half way down them. The trumpets and backplate being 1 unit, taken off easily as a unit, and very neat.

I changed my water pipe idea after I knocked up some alloy tubes, by making that unit I showed before, below the carbs on the block...As such I may just get a single piece of alloy tube, get it bent 180 in place of hoses and clips that made up the section to the EWP...I can cut the thermostatic mechanism from the inline fan controller and just glue it to the tube...Making it super simple. Just a small 3" length section of hose joining the water manifold to the new alloy section...First real backtrack, but its a better design (MUCH lighter!). Again this as with the entire fuel system will be removed with the engine.

Radiator shrouding.

Make bracket for Apollo Oil-deairation tank.