Boing Boing Part 2 + blah blah.

Okay. Let me elude my master plan.

Below is the normal top mount system with the additional spring retainer.

The ride height is chocked up as normal...Note there is ONLY 3/4" inch left before the bump stop...Same as before...NOT good...Always annoyed me. Also as a result FAR too much droop potential, all the shocks movement!...(remember my test idea of straps to reduce it? - no longer needed)

Useless! I intend to lower the car even more, so this is no use...Lets throw away the crappy rubber doughnuts, top spring seat and start fresh.
No good!
Bin this. You're left with the thing below. Suddenly you have 2" of travel before the stop....Also you have only 1/2" of droop when jacked up, or cornering before it cocks the inside wheel...Now when fully opened out, the shock can be used as a droop limiting device and shock. All problems with travel are gone. Droop level now adjustable via rod-end thread. (see below)
As removed, 2" of travel from static ride height.
Below shows about 1/2- 3/4" of droop before the shock stops it...1/2" -3/4" is around the amount the 500lbs spring will compress with the car on it...So no more rattling springs and no need for helper springs and tiewraps. I don't mind cocked wheels under hard cornering, alot of race cars do it, not that roll was an extreme problem before, plus I can tune the level.
Below shows where are static ride the 6" 2.25" spring will leave the bottom seat...I could even go to 5" springs.
Now the cunning part...Tap a thread of 7/16th onto the stub left on the shocker rod. Add a rod end bearing (shown item for display only). This allows for the movement in and outward of the bottom wishbone, you cannot just solid mount the shock at the top, it must swing with the wishbone...
I haven't done that yet, I need a bearing and some more thoughts on the droop level and stuff.
This is the basic idea...I just need to make a U bracket that bolts through the existing 3 holes for the top spring seat...This will take a 1/2" bolt...the rod-end will be 7/16 by 1/2". I will add another plate below the turret to strengthen the area, enlarge the 1/4" holes to 3/8th and job will be done...
Rough diagram...You get the idea...

Lots of birds with 1 stone...

Lacking bump space and bump stop fouling fixed

Excessive droop problem fixed.

Bespoke adjustment of droop before wheel lift

Reduce mass and run special short springs
Increase shock action by removing rubber parts

Ability to run the chassis on the floor - not that important but possible :)

I shall pop to Merlins tomorrow and select some springs and get the rod-ends, hopefully have this bit cracked this week, can then clean up that shockingly foul suspension!

Basic but effective...You could just buy two more shocks with eyes at either end, but they are not perfect as the eyelet doesn't protrude vertically by a great distance..So adapt what you have!...

I have actually about 5 ways in my mind, all of which come to the same result...sleep on those ideas.

I'll pickup some steel tomorrow too.....

Then there is the small issue of copying the "windmill plastics cars" front top wishbone setup?...Extending the front top wishbone pickup from the turret forwards to a new turret, about 7" forwards by the radiator...So giving no movement forward or backward at the top ball joint and allowing its position to be adjusted, castor......and upright location will be VASTLY improved under load, braking especially...

Also strengthening the lower wishbones, making them 100% stiffer...By "boxing" them up a bit and adding Bill from Rare-bits-for-classics solid lower wishbone bushes used on the early Heralds....Mods galour :)

Screw it, may as well do it now!

Also the wishbone brackets need longer bolts...Got this sudden rush of motivation now the car is coming together and looking so ace!

Said I was gonna leave it didn't I :)

ANY PICS OR INFO on the Plastic Spitfire with the funny front suspension GLADLY recieved...Windwill Plastic car?

I'll ponder my suspension options for a while..