Saturday, August 05, 2006

An evenings fiddling

Really can't be bothered to spend any cash on another capillary water gauge atm, the old one is still working ok to 80C which is rarely exceeds. I still have the stock triumph one in the car, it was oil temp gauge, being as there is nothing you can do about oil temp bar add a cooler, which I have, I never bothered to wire it up.

The radiator has two large blank caps where sensors can go, I drilled out a suitable sized hole in one and self tapped the stock triumph water temp sender into this, with plenty of epoxy for good measure, so for the trip I now have two water temp gauges!

The Megajolt ignition has a shift light function and 4 user programmable outputs at certain rpm. I made a single lamp shift light tonite with an a red LED lamp, tested it at 11.30pm by making it work at 1200rpm to not piss of my neighbours ! it comes on at 7000rpm after resetting it, help to remind me to change gear. When I get some more molex pins I will make a 3 light system, yellow at 7000, orange at 7200 and red at 7400, they stay on so its a staged system.

My car on all engines with twin carbs has always made a whisle noise at certain throttle positions at all rpm, just off a closed throttle then goes as you open it up, sounds like pinking but its not as you can back the ignition off 15degrees and it still makes it...Funny noise, sounds like the air rushing past the progression holes in the carbs, whistling. I'd like to work out what it is oneday!

I adjusted my megajolt map today a bit, tested a few huge variations in the 1600 and 2400rpm range. The only downside of this light flywheel is the fact the performance before 2750rpm in 4th gear is plainly crap if rushed- bar on flat road where its ok and even pulls 5th gear from 1500rpm, its just when you meet any kind of incline, or rush it from 1500rpm to 2350rpm in 4th on the flat. Clears by 2350 on the flat and 2750-3000 uphill...Guess I am asking alot of a race cam and light flywheel 8-) ie perfect clarity! It was a really noticeable thing on my first test drive, the stock flywheel was much better in this area and pants at the top....

This is the lightest I have used and combined with the camshaft there is a bit of a trade off or makes tuning it harder anyways ...So I changed my first ignition map point from 1800 rpm to 1600 and brought map point two down from 2500 to 2200, map point 3 is 3500rpm. Seems to help.

In regards to WOT 100kpa atmospheric pressure MAP line I am running 15deg BTDC at idle speed, 25degrees BTDC at 1600rpm and 27 degrees at 2200rpm...Actually there small improvement after doing this especially at a near closed throttle I could use 5th at lower rpm without it moaning. Dialled out a bit of the flywheel effect.

I tested 21 and 23 degrees BTDC at 1800 - and 23 and 25 at 2400 which was a bag of crap on both then reverted back to me normal setting which was improved (25-1800, 27-2400). Then ramped the points of rpm down to 1600 and 2200 and used the above settings which it seemed to like...Next stage is to ramp the idle advance up a bit more I think, need to get me PC in the garage and see what it will take before the RPM stops raising then go back a deg or so.

Here is my current map for the MJL remember its 3D -manifold pressure (MAP30-108) versus rpm.

RPM =1000,1600,2200,3500,4100,5000,5500,6000,6500,7100

MAP 30= 20, 28, 30, 31, 33, 35, 36, 36, 37, 38(closed plate/overun)
MAP 40= 19, 28, 29, 30, 32, 34, 35, 35, 36, 37(touch open high rpm)
MAP 50= 18, 27, 29, 30, 32, 34, 35, 35, 36, 36(light load plate slightly open)
MAP 95= 17, 26, 28, 29, 31, 33, 34, 34, 35, 35
MAP 98= 16, 25, 27, 28, 30, 32, 33, 34, 34, 35
MAP 100=15, 25, 27, 28, 30, 32, 33, 34, 34, 35 (wide open!)
MAP 102=14, 24, 26, 27, 29, 32, 33, 34, 34, 34(retard maps)
MAP 104=13, 23, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 33, 33, 33
MAP 106=12, 22, 24, 25, 27, 30, 30, 32, 32, 32
MAP 108=11, 21, 23, 24, 26, 29, 29, 31, 31, 31

I can make alot more of this ignition unit but without a laptop I can't road test it so this is a safe bet from various experiments using settings that work best from them all. I could run more advance in the 30MAP line I think and 40 too, but I kept it simple for now!

Lots of wiring added in the last week! Just need this meter to tie it all up. The guy only sent it special delivery after checking the number, my guess is it will arrive monday! I told him to send it Saturday guaranteed!!!!! Gawd!

Like the new exhaust, its much quieter you can actually hear the carbs now and it doesn't vibrate the hole car and world as much! Still makes a fair howl at higher rpm.

The trick to get away with mild sound offences at the Ring is to not rev in the carpark, idle to the gates, drive slowly at low rpm till you pass the bridge and boot it when you get to Tiergarten or Turn 11 (funny name! its turn 4), at the laps end back off right after the final corner...This gives you time to let the engine cool off too.

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