Saturday, November 24, 2007

Harness fun

Adding lots of mounts! Used big steel plates behind these 60x60mm.

Anti-Sub straps run under the seat, only place I can fix them as the seat is 18mm off the floorpan in the recessed part, also here to get adjustment on the belts by reaching under the seat front.

Like so. This also allows me to remove the straps easily for daily use.
Rear belts shortened by 45cm to just what is needed with the adjustment centralised on the adjuster on your chest. Ideally you should have these belts horizontal from the seat slots...But the seat slots are above my shoulders so no need, as getting my spine compressed will not happen as the seat slots will take the downwards tighening action. Most race spits are like this anyways.

There is only 1inch of rearward movement left on the seat due the angle I want, so no use for tall drivers, its MY car anyway. The steering column is on maximum extension and my driving position is further back than before, legs a bit straighter....All helps weight dist. Sitting pretty low, a bit lower that before...Have to get the bonnet back on to see what its like before making some alloy triangular mounts for the seat runners to fix onto at the correct angle...Nice job on the mill at the engineering shop. No bits of wood etc!
I must say the seat is great, no impeded arms or anything, really well formed ergonomically, PERFECT for the car in every way. I may make some small bolsters to just slighly adjust a few areas. Such as the front edge of the seat, I just like something under my legs on the edge to work against... So a 1inch thick firm pad covered in leather would be good here as your legs are still a bowed up like normal, there's a little air under them...I like to sink into a seat. This was the same on the normal seat till I cut it, added less angle between back and base and jacked the front up 2" on blocks and welded it into a new shape, packed it with packing in some areas, removed some from others. Custom fit, hense I was never bothered by the seat on the track, it was a glove. Thats about it for adjustments...Well worth a 2 year wait on ebay :)
I also worked a really neat (simple) solution to the fuel line location to the carbs...Basically the regulator will sit on the drivers side engine mount, lines off the carbs on goodridge connectors will run forward, not to the bulkhead, dropping a line down to meet the regulator...The regulator spans the engine mount inline with the chassis legs (front to back)...A line from the carbs down to meet the regulator at one end, the other connection drops down the chassis where it meets the line from the boot (hardline meeting straight bulkhead JIC6 connector..)..meaning minimal connections.. This means I just have to unclip one line and pull the engine out with the carbs, regulator and everything still attached...Really simple and my bulkhead will be bare! I need to work a pressure gauge in too...May fit one on the dash running from somewhere...Tapping a hole into a carb union end and putting a -3 > NPT connector in? braided line into the cabin as with all these JIC connectors you cannot whip off a line and test pressure...I don't want a regulator with a gauge something more simple.

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